Far from the bustling coastlines and well-trodden tourist routes, in the very heart of northern Burgos, lies a land where time seems to stand still. This is Las Merindades, a historic region whose capital, Medina de Pomar, is a true time capsule. This medieval enclave has preserved its original character through the centuries, offering travelers not just a sightseeing trip, but a full immersion into the atmosphere of bygone eras. Here, every cobblestone, every curve of a narrow street, whispers stories of knights, noble lords, and ordinary townsfolk who lived centuries ago.
The undisputed landmark of the city’s skyline is the Alcázar de los Condestables, better known to locals as “Las Torres” – the Towers. Built in 1370 by the powerful Velasco family, this castle stands as a silent witness to the evolution of Castilian nobility. Originally conceived as an impregnable defensive stronghold, over time it was transformed into a lavish palace where the austere stone walls became the backdrop for refined aristocratic life. Today, this fortress, officially recognized as a Site of Cultural Interest, warmly welcomes visitors. Inside, it houses the Museo de Las Merindades, whose exhibitions cover the archaeology, history, and fine arts of the region. And from the terrace, one can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the town and its picturesque surroundings.
The grandeur of the castle is complemented by other treasures scattered throughout the city. Nearby stands the Monasterio de Santa Clara, which for seven centuries was home to the Clarissan nuns. Today, its walls house the Museo Condestables, continuing the historical narrative of the region’s rulers. The city’s religious heritage is also represented by churches such as Iglesia de la Santa Cruz and the secluded chapel Ermita de San Millán. The latter is especially significant, as it hosts the Center for the Interpretation of Romanesque Art, offering deeper insight into the features of this architectural style. A walk through the historic center is a journey of constant discovery. One moment, you are passing under the Arco de la Judería, a reminder of the city’s Jewish past, and the next, beneath the Arco de la Cadena, another fragment of the former fortress walls.
But Medina de Pomar is more than just history set in stone. It is a living, breathing city. The main thoroughfare, Calle Mayor, will inevitably lead you to Plaza Mayor—the social heart where life is vibrant. The square, surrounded by inviting café and restaurant terraces, sits beneath the imposing neoclassical town hall. From here, a special viewpoint offers stunning views of the Trueba River. Its waters flow gently through city parks and green spaces such as La Chopera and Villalobos. On hot days, you can escape the heat with a swim in the natural pools. This is a place where history and nature merge, creating a unique atmosphere that surely deserves a place on your next Spanish itinerary.
