Anyone venturing into the region where the city of lovers is located will find that its geography is full of surprises. Amid fields, mountain ranges, and valleys, a landscape emerges that defies all expectations of the Iberian Peninsula’s geography. The barren soil, reddish hues, and bizarre shapes of the terrain create a setting reminiscent of American Westerns. Spanning around 65 hectares, this area has been shaped over centuries by erosion, resulting in a harsh yet captivating environment. This is the dry riverbed of Barracín, an enclave in the heart of the Aragonese kingdom, which, despite its proximity to the city of the same name, astonishes with how far it departs from the region’s familiar image.
What makes this area so special is the combination of its colors and landscapes. Yellow, orange, and ochre tones paint the surface, which changes shades throughout the day as the sun moves. In spring, flowers emerge among the drought, proving that life finds its way even in the most hostile conditions. In winter, however, a cold air flow can turn a visit into a real challenge. The terrain’s shapes are another of its attractions. Ridges resembling giant teeth, narrow gorges, and gentle slopes create a space where every step offers a new perspective. The highest point is reached at what is known as the Muela, a plateau that serves as a natural viewpoint, allowing you to take in the city, the Guadalaviar river, the Albarracín mountain range, and even the peak of Javalambre on clear days.
Visiting Barracina is easier than it might seem. The most common starting point is the city known for its Mudéjar architecture. From there, just take the N-330 national highway towards Cuenca. After about 3.5 kilometers and crossing a bridge over a ravine, you’ll see a turnoff for Villaespesa. There’s a spacious area right next to it where you can easily park your car. This is where the walking part of the journey begins. The most popular route follows the riverbed upstream. It’s a wide path, but sandy and rocky, so it’s wise to wear good shoes. The six-kilometer walk to Muela is generally easy, though the final stretch requires leaving the main trail and cutting straight across to reach the summit.
The surroundings along the way are as striking as they are unexpected. Vegetation here is sparse and low, which adds to the sense of desolation. It’s not uncommon to see gusts of wind rolling dry branches across the ground, reminiscent of cowboy movies. This atmosphere, combined with the prevailing silence, makes Barracina an excellent destination to escape the hustle and bustle and feel small in the face of nature’s power.
The reward for the effort of climbing comes with the views that open up from the plateau. There, a geodetic marker stands—a point used for mapping that highlights the significance of such locations in Spanish cartography. While it might look like a strange monument, it is not a decorative element, so visitors are advised to treat it with respect and not touch it.
Those who set out to explore this natural treasure should keep a few things in mind. Most importantly, sun protection is vital, especially in summer when temperatures can rise sharply and shade is scarce. A hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water are absolutely necessary. In winter, strong winds can make the hike more challenging, so appropriate clothing is recommended.
It’s also crucial to exercise extreme caution near cliffs and not allow children to get too close to the edge, as wind gusts can be very strong. Since this is a natural area with almost no signage, each visitor must find their own way while always taking care not to harm the environment.
The dry bed of Barracín is undoubtedly one of those places that stands out for its contrast with the usual perception of the country’s landscapes. Its resemblance to scenery from other continents makes it an excellent choice for hikers, photography enthusiasts, or simply curious people searching for unique spots within the country.
