As December arrives, Spain transforms, and many set out in search of that nearly forgotten festive spirit. Away from the hustle and bustle of the big cities, where neon lights overshadow the stars, there are places that preserve true magic. Here, the air smells of fireplace smoke, bells ring out, and visitors are offered more than just shopping. Among these treasures is a tiny Catalan village that has become an unofficial symbol of Christmas tradition.
This is Espinelves, a village of just over two hundred residents, nestled in the province of Girona between the Montseny and Guilleries mountain ranges. Its strength lies in authenticity. Stone houses with tiled roofs, narrow streets, and beautifully preserved Romanesque architecture give the feeling of a journey through time. The landscape is dominated by the 11th-century church of Sant Vicenç, whose severe silhouette can be seen from almost anywhere. The whole ensemble is so harmonious it feels as if you’ve stepped into a living Christmas card or a nativity scene.
Yet Espinelves owes its widespread popularity and thousands of visitors to one event—the Fira de l’Avet, or Fir Tree Fair. This tradition, which began in the early 1980s, unofficially marks the start of the festive season throughout Catalonia. For several weeks, the entire village transforms into a vast open-air market. The stars of the show are, of course, the fir and spruce trees grown on local plantations. The Masjoanis and Picea Excelsa varieties, renowned for their beauty and resilience, wait to be taken home and become the centerpiece of family celebrations.
But the fair is far more than just a tree market. It’s a true festival of craftsmanship and tradition. The streets fill with music, the aroma of roasted chestnuts, and steaming drinks. Artisans craft unique decorations, ceramics, and textiles right before your eyes. You’ll find everything to decorate your home, sample local delicacies, and watch live demonstrations of traditional crafts. For the youngest visitors, there are workshops and street theater performances, while the infectious enthusiasm of the locals, who pour their hearts into the event, captivates everyone.
If you want a break from the bustle of the fair, just head to the edge of the village. There you’ll find another remarkable place — the Masjoan Grove. It’s considered the largest collection of monumental trees in the region. Some local giants soar skyward over 40 meters, including the tallest fir in Catalonia, which stands at more than 43 meters tall. This ancient forest, named after a 12th-century estate, is the perfect spot for a peaceful walk and reconnecting with nature, especially on a crisp winter’s day.
A trip to Espinelves ahead of the holidays is an immersion into a warm, cozy atmosphere where authenticity matters more than glittering tinsel. This village proves that real magic lies not in dazzling lights, but in preserving traditions, genuine hospitality, and heartfelt companionship.
