In the very heart of Rioja Alavesa, nestled among hills and vineyards, lies a town that seems to have stepped out of another era. Laguardia is not just an ancient settlement, but a true open-air museum where every stone holds a story. Here, there’s no city bustle—only air filled with the scent of oak barrels and freshly baked bread. In winter, when the crowds of tourists vanish, the town reveals its unique, almost intimate character.
Narrow cobblestone streets lead to ancient gates and massive walls that have protected locals from enemies for centuries. In Laguardia, time seems to stand still: facades are adorned with family crests, and you can still hear echoes of medieval festivals on the squares. It’s easy to lose yourself in this labyrinth of alleys, where each turn brings a new discovery—whether it’s an old fountain or a hidden door to a wine cellar.
Preserved appearance
The town was founded in the 10th century as a frontier outpost. Its layout has changed little over a thousand years. The powerful walls originally built for defense still surround the historic center today. Inside are palaces, aristocratic houses, and modest craftsmen’s homes, each telling its own part of a shared story.
A special place belongs to the Casa de la Primicia—a 14th-century building where harvest taxes were once collected. Its massive walls and Gothic windows evoke an era when the town was a major economic center in the region. In Laguardia, there are no accidental details: even the street lamps look as if they’ve just been lit by cloaked watchmen.
Secrets of the Underground
Beneath the feet of Laguardia’s residents and visitors lies an entire underground world. More than two hundred wine cellars are linked by a network of tunnels, forming a true labyrinth. These catacombs appeared in the Middle Ages and served not only for wine storage but also as a refuge in times of danger. Today, guided tours and tastings are held here, and in winter the underground spaces feel especially cozy: the temperature stays constant, and the air is filled with the rich aroma of aged wine.
In one underground gallery, archaeologists discovered a massive reservoir dating back to the Iron Age. With a capacity of up to 300,000 liters of water, researchers believe it was used for rituals. Near the town, dolmens such as Chabola de la Hechicera have been preserved, reminding us that these lands were sacred long before the first vineyards appeared.
Symbols of Faith
The two churches of Laguardia don’t just adorn the city—they define its character. The Church of Santa María de los Reyes captivates with its painted portal: the colors on the stone have been preserved thanks to centuries of protection behind a wall. Nearby rises the Abbot’s Tower, once part of the city’s defensive fortifications.
The second church, San Juan Bautista, combines Romanesque, Gothic, and Neoclassical elements. Its southern portal is decorated with biblical scenes, and the columns feature intricate carvings. The former watchtower now houses the bell tower, and a museum in the sacristy showcases ancient relics and religious artifacts.
Wine Capital
Wine is an integral part of life in Laguardia. Vineyards surround the city, changing colors with the seasons. Local wineries blend centuries-old traditions with modern technology, inviting visitors for tours and tastings. Here, you can not only sample the famous Rioja wines, but also discover how they are made—from the harvest to aging in oak barrels.
In winter, the wine cellars become true havens from the cold. Within their walls, you’ll hear stories of ancient rituals, family secrets, and production mysteries. For wine enthusiasts, Laguardia is a place where every glass reveals a new facet of flavor and aroma.
A View of Eternity
One of the most stunning routes leads to the El Collao viewpoint. From here, you get a breathtaking view of the vineyards, the Cantabrian mountains, and the town itself, seemingly floating above the valley. It’s a place where you want to linger, breathe in the history, and enjoy the silence interrupted only by the cries of birds.
Laguardia in winter is not just about architecture and wine, but also a unique sense of solitude. Here, it’s easy to forget about time, immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the past, and discover a new, unexpected side of Spain.
Laguardia is a town unlike any other in Spain. Its history runs deep, and its traditions are still alive today. Locals honor the memory of their ancestors, carefully preserve their architectural heritage, and proudly share stories about their wines. Every year, travelers come here to step into genuine medieval times and discover new flavors. Laguardia is not just a spot on the map, but a place where past and present come together as one.
