When the calendar stubbornly hints at the coming of winter and most of northern Spain’s forests have already shed their vibrant attire, there is one place where time seems to slow down. In the Somiedo Natural Park, just an hour and a half from Oviedo, November reveals itself in all its glory. Gentle mists drape the valleys, and the unhurried pace of life creates a sense of endless in-between seasons, where golden and crimson hues linger, refusing to give way to winter’s gray.
The secret behind this phenomenon lies in the park’s unique natural conditions. Deep valleys and the special configuration of the mountain slopes help retain warmth, so November temperatures remain relatively mild. This directly affects the life cycle of the beech forests that dominate the local landscape. Leaves stay on the trees much longer than usual, painting the slopes in shades of ochre, copper, and gold, while elsewhere in the principality the scenery already looks bare and wintry. Low population density also plays a key role: these forests are virtually untouched, and nature lives here by its own rules, undisturbed by humans.
Late autumn is a wonderful time for hiking in Somiedo. The summer heat has faded, snow has yet to cover the mid-elevation trails, and there are hardly any tourists on the routes. One of the most famous trails, leading to Valle del Lago, lets you fully enjoy the transformation of beech groves, stroll through meadows, and see small waterfalls that come to life with the first rains. Another classic spot, the Lagos de Saliencia, offers postcard-perfect panoramic views. Those seeking solitude will find a unique, photogenic atmosphere here, with traditional stone huts topped with thatched roofs (teito), scattered among golden forests.
The lingering autumn has its own soundtrack. Although the deer rutting season is mostly over, in the highlands you can still hear the echoes of lonely stags calling out. At this time of year, deer are often seen grazing on open slopes and clearings. The park is also home to the Cantabrian brown bear. Spotting one is extremely rare, and if you do, it’s vital to keep your distance and act with utmost caution, but signs of their presence—paw prints or markings on tree trunks—are fairly common. The best time to observe wildlife is early in the morning or just before sunset.
Fogs are another quintessential feature of November in Somiedo. They appear and vanish within minutes, creating unique, almost mystical scenes. On overcast days, when thick mist hides distant views, you can visit three scenic viewpoints that don’t require long hikes. Mirador del Príncipe offers a panoramic view of the valley, Mirador de Aguino lets you appreciate the depth and scale of local gorges, and the road to Valle de Lago itself turns into a picturesque journey through tunnels of colorful trees.
The cool weather is perfect for getting acquainted with hearty, warming Asturian cuisine. After a long walk in the fresh air, nothing beats traditional thick soups (potés), the famous fabada, grilled meats, or rich stews. Local artisan cheeses also deserve attention, especially the creamy varieties of afuega’l pitu. What might start as a day trip can easily turn into a full-fledged gastronomic weekend.
Getting to Somiedo Park is easy. The drive from Oviedo takes between 75 and 90 minutes, depending on your final destination. The route winds along a mountain road with good surface, and the journey itself is a visual delight. For those coming from the León side, there’s a scenic route through the Puerto de Somiedo pass, which in November looks especially impressive—particularly if the first snows have already dusted the mountain peaks.
