Where the canyons of the mighty Miño River carve into the landscape, creating near-vertical slopes dotted with vineyards, there is a corner that, until recently, was known only to a few. This is not just a spot on the map but a whole world with its own rules, where time flows differently, dictated by the ancient rhythm of nature and human labor. At first glance, it feels like a single entity, but if you look closer, you’ll notice the river divides it into two completely different administrative units, creating a unique symbiosis between two municipalities.
Two souls of one enclave
This remarkable enclave, home to just about thirty people, is called Belesar. Its western side belongs to the municipality of Chantada, while the eastern side is part of O Saviñao. Here, the Miño serves not just as a geographical feature, but a genuine symbolic border. The bridge connecting the two halves stands on ancient Roman foundations. It’s been restored on its original pillars, and today is an integral part of the Winter Way of St. James, the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Stone houses with wooden accents cluster right by the water. Some are decorated using traditional sgraffito, giving them a distinctive, authentic charm. Life here feels frozen in time, though that impression is deceiving.
Traces of empires and submerged sanctuaries
The history of this land runs deep into antiquity. The strategically vital Roman road connecting Braga and Astorga once passed through Belesar. Its winding section, known as the “Bends of Belesar,” still shapes the landscape today and recalls the era of the great empire. Yet, it wasn’t only the Romans who left their mark here. Atop a high hill stands the church of San Bartolomeu, home to a true marvel—a Baroque altar from 1747. This altar was rescued from another church that was flooded during the construction of a reservoir in 1963. This dramatic story is now woven into the local identity. Not far away lies another gem, Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño, a remarkable example of Romanesque architecture with a vast rose window and a crypt artfully integrated into the rugged terrain. And the half-buried wine cellars—bodegas—by the water’s edge eloquently speak of centuries-old winemaking traditions.
Heroic winemaking and unhurried relaxation
A visitor arriving in Belesar finds much more than just beautiful landscapes. They immerse themselves in an atmosphere shaped by respect for nature and an unhurried pace of life. Catamarans depart from the local pier, gliding through the calmest stretches of the Miño canyons. From the water, there is a breathtaking view of terraced vineyards that seem poised to slide into the emerald surface below. This is what’s known as ‘heroic winemaking’—cultivating vines on such steep slopes is truly a feat. On clear days, the water reflects the stone and greenery, creating a surreal scene. Belesar is rightfully considered one of the most enchanting enclaves of the Ribeira Sacra region—a place of power, bringing people together across time and space.
The Underwater Ghost
But this region also harbors a great mystery. At the bottom of the Miño lies the ancient fortification of Castro, a centuries-old stronghold that sometimes, during periods of low water, emerges on the surface. This mystical sight adds historical depth and a sense of mystery to the whole area. The appearance of the ghostly fortress from the depths draws attention and serves as a reminder of how many secrets this ancient land still holds. These are not simply ruins, but a silent witness to eras predating even the Romans, and its sudden emergence stirs the imagination, making one ponder both the fragility and the eternity of history.
