As the cold weather arrives in Spain, many crave a hearty, warming meal. Homemade stews and soups certainly have their appeal, but some long-standing establishments offer something truly special. For many, these dishes become a cherished ritual—like the Madrid cocido, whose serving is a ceremony in itself. The capital boasts plenty of places famous for their take on this classic, but acclaimed chef David Muñoz has a clear favorite.
He’s talking about Lhardy, a restaurant that’s been part of Madrid’s history since 1839—not just feeding guests, but shaping the city’s culinary legacy. It’s here that the DiverXo founder has been spotted alongside international stars like actress Eva Longoria and Apple CEO Tim Cook. “There’s no better plan than sharing Madrid cocido with friends and talking about padel,” Muñoz once said. Inspired by the finest European models of its time, this establishment introduced the very concept of the modern restaurant to Spain.
If the walls of Lhardy could talk, they would tell stories of how the history of early 20th-century Spain was written within its halls. The restaurant was a legendary meeting place for artists, diplomats, and intellectuals, who debated pivotal matters over hearty dishes. The atmosphere of that era still lingers in the wooden panels, antique mirrors, and samovars from which soup is served to guests. Lhardy was not just a place to eat, but a universe where aesthetics and impeccable service took center stage—earning it a reputation among the social elite that endures to this day.
This gastronomic temple sparked a true revolution: it elevated everyday Spanish cuisine, especially traditional stew, to the status of high art. At Lhardy, ‘cocido isabelino’—the quintessentially Madrid style—is served with particular flair, along with another signature dish, consommé. Here, a recipe with humble origins is ‘dressed up’ on silver trays and tureens, presented on tables set with pristine white tablecloths and napkins.
The special ritual of serving cocido in Madrid, known as ‘tres vuelcos’ (three servings), sets it apart from versions in other regions of Spain. The ceremony begins with a soup featuring the finest ‘angel hair’ vermicelli. Next comes chickpeas boiled with vegetables. The meal concludes with a third course—a selection of meats, sausages, and more vegetables, creating an incredibly hearty and complete dish that needs nothing else.
Incidentally, David Muñoz is one of the brightest stars in the culinary world, not only in Spain but globally. His Madrid restaurant, DiverXo, has been awarded three Michelin stars—the highest distinction in gastronomy. Muñoz is often dubbed the “enfant terrible” of Spanish cuisine for his bold, avant-garde, and sometimes provocative approach to creating dishes. He has repeatedly been named the best chef in the world by the prestigious The Best Chef Awards. His cuisine is always an experiment, blending Asian influences with Spanish traditions.
