Imagine a colossal stone wall slicing through a mountainous landscape, plunging into the emerald waters of a reservoir and soaring skyward again on the opposite shore. This isn’t a fantasy film set but a real place in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca. These are the Roques de la Vila cliffs, which earned their grand nickname thanks to their striking resemblance to the legendary structure in Asia. Two nearly perfect parallel ridges of limestone create the illusion of a man-made fortress guarding the tranquility of these wild areas by the Canelles reservoir.
Despite first impressions, humans had nothing to do with the creation of this cyclopean structure. Its architect is the planet itself. Millions of years ago, during the Cretaceous period, tectonic processes folded the limestone layers almost vertically. Then wind and water took over, tirelessly sculpting and polishing the stone into what we see today. The result is a natural corridor between two walls, stretching for almost a kilometer, with heights in some places exceeding twenty meters. From certain angles, the silhouette of the rocks resembles the petrified spine of a giant dragon.
At the foot of this geological wonder lies another landmark, tinged with human drama—the village of Finestres. Its streets were deserted in the 1960s, when dam construction doomed the surrounding lands to flooding. Residents, who for centuries had worked in agriculture and olive oil production, were forced to abandon their homes. Today, a walk among the silent ruins—once home to a school, a mill, and a church—leaves a lasting impression. It is a journey into the so-called “Empty Spain.” The only well-preserved building, Casa Coix, stands as a silent monument to a bygone era and to the people whose lives were inseparably tied to these cliffs.
The landscape here is not only striking but also steeped in history. This unique natural fortress caught the attention of medieval strategists. As early as the 11th century, the Finestres castle was built atop one of the rocks, and the Romanesque chapel of Sant Vicente was integrated into the very ridge. Today, only ruins remain, lending the scenery an aura of mystery and magnetism. The chapel is accessible only when the reservoir’s water level is low, turning the visit into a true adventure.
There are several ways to explore this site. The simplest and most popular route leads from the abandoned village to the Ermita de San Marcos. It’s a short walk, rewarding visitors with the best panoramic views of the cliffs and the reservoir—an ideal spot for photos. More experienced travelers can follow a trail that goes directly through the gorge between the rock walls to the ruins of San Vicente. The path is brief but demands caution due to steep descents and climbs. A completely different experience awaits those who venture out by kayak or boat: the chance to literally pass ‘through’ the wall offers a new and surprising perspective.
The seclusion and well-preserved state of this natural spot is largely due to its difficult access. Getting here is a challenge. From the town of Estopiñán del Castillo, a dirt road stretches for about 12 kilometers, full of bumps and sharp turns. An SUV is best suited for this journey; otherwise, you will need to leave your car at the Peñavera bridge and continue on foot or by bicycle. But all the challenges of the trip pale in comparison to the majesty and beauty that await those who choose to undertake this adventure.
