In recent years, Spain has experienced an unexpected gastronomic renaissance, with the iconic pintxo known as the gilda reclaiming the spotlight as a symbol of Basque bars. The younger generation, particularly Gen Z, has rediscovered this simple yet bold snack and turned it into a fashionable trend. In Madrid, you can now find venues offering dozens of gilda variations, each new combination sparking fresh curiosity.
The gilda’s origins trace back to San Sebastián in the 1940s, when a bar patron named Txepetxa first skewered an olive, anchovy, and spicy pepper together. The snack was named after the film ‘Gilda’ starring Rita Hayworth, as regulars joked it was ‘green, salty, and a little spicy.’ Since then, gilda has become an integral part of Spain’s tapas culture, though its popularity later waned.
A classic revived
Today, the gilda is enjoying a major resurgence. It has long outgrown the borders of País Vasco and can now be found across the country—from Madrid to León—served alongside drinks in bars. Interest is especially high among young people seeking new flavors and unafraid to experiment.
An unusual venue has opened in Madrid’s Chueca district, at the Mercado de San Antón — La Real Gilda’s Gallery. Here, visitors are treated not only to the classic gilda, but also to over forty unique variations. The culinary experiments are led by chef Nacho Talavera, who is convinced that modern diners are eager to try bold combinations and embrace adventurous flavors.
Flavor experiments
At La Real Gilda’s Gallery, gildas are made exclusively with Spanish ingredients, and the selection is constantly expanding. The goal is to reach one hundred varieties. Why has this approach become so popular? According to the chef, more and more visitors are asking for something new: some prefer milder flavors, others dislike anchovies or vinegar, and some are simply looking for unexpected combinations.
The menu now features gildas with smoked salmon, mozzarella, fuet, and Manchego, as well as more exotic options — like dates with blue cheese. At first, these combinations may seem surprising, but after a tasting, many admit they’re delicious and original. Talavera himself says his favorite is the gilda with date and blue cheese.
New traditions
The chef compares the gilda to turrón: there’s the classic version, but also surprising new creations that wow the public each year. The main thing is to keep the familiar base, but not be afraid to add your own twist. Before any new gilda appears on the menu, the team rigorously tests combinations to achieve the perfect harmony of flavors.
Variations can include with or without olives, different types of fish, cheese, or even vegan ingredients. What remains unchanged is the spirit of the gilda—a light appetizer that is instantly recognizable and enjoyable to eat. The classic version is still highly regarded, but new flavors keep guests interested, offering something fresh and different.
Generation Z chooses the gilda
The gilda has become popular again, not only among older generations but also with young people. According to Talavera, it’s the youth who are driving demand for this product. They’ve embraced the culture of aperitifs and vermouth with gilda, turning this ritual into a growing trend.
San Sebastián has always valued tradition, but today demand is growing for new flavors. Millennials and Gen Z see the gilda as a fun and quirky snack, perfect for sharing and trying new combinations with friends.
Over forty flavors and counting
At La Real Gilda’s Gallery, you’ll find gilda with tuna and piquillo pepper, with shrimp and quail egg, with black olive and cod, with pickled cucumber and salmon, with octopus, with cheese and anchovy, with duck and mozzarella, and many other variations. There are even vegan gildas, like those with artichoke or caramelized onion.
The selection keeps expanding—from the classic to the most unexpected combinations, including gildas with blue cheese and dates, with mussels, with eggplant, with pepper and cod. There’s an option for every taste—and this is just the beginning of a new chapter for the gilda in Spain.
