Autumn in the lands of honeyed name, Alcarria, is the perfect time for a leisurely journey, free from the crowds of tourists. Here, in the province of Guadalajara, a unique cultural route unfolds, following the footsteps of one of the most renowned works of 20th-century Spanish literature. This is more than just a trip—it’s a deep dive into a world first revealed to readers nearly eighty years ago by Nobel laureate Camilo José Cela. The path winds through ancient towns, passes imposing castles, and crosses landscapes that became the living backdrop for his famous book. Today, this route lets travelers relive the author’s impressions, exploring fortress walls, cozy arcaded squares, and panoramic viewpoints over the Tagus River, all while preserving the spirit of the narrative that began in 1946.
From Guadalajara to the heart of Alcarria
The journey begins in Guadalajara itself, a city rich in heritage, where medieval towers stand alongside Renaissance palaces. After visiting the co-cathedral, travelers head to Torija, known as the “natural gateway” to the region. Here, within the walls of a majestic 15th-century castle, you’ll find the unique Museum ‘Journey to the Alcarria’—the world’s first cultural space entirely dedicated to a single book. This is the perfect place to tune into the right mindset before hitting the road. The next stop is Brihuega, a historic town surrounded by an ancient Arab wall. It’s famous for its Royal Cloth Factory and the Peña Bermeja Castle, immersing visitors in the atmosphere of bygone eras.
Along the banks of the Tajo: the emotional heart of the route
The journey further unfolds the emotional geography depicted in the work. Travelers visit Masueco de Tajuña, where a shepherding museum offers insight into the soul of the region. The route then leads to Cifuentes, charming with its main square and the Romanesque portal of the Church of Santiago. Gradually, the path approaches the River Tajo, taking you to Trillo, a town renowned for its 16th-century bridge, historic spa, and outskirts that open onto the whimsical hills known as the “Breasts of Viana.” The itinerary also includes small but colorful villages such as Chillarón del Rey, Durón, and Budía, where medieval pillories and old squares with ancient fountains have been preserved. The road winds past the hamlet of El Olivar and through the picturesque landscapes of the Entrepeñas reservoir, offering moments of tranquil contemplation.
Journey’s finale: from medieval crafts to Visigothic ruins
In Pareja, the rhythm of life is set by the central Plaza Mayor and the centuries-old elm, which has become a symbol of local traditions. In Sacedón, there are views of the reservoir known by locals as the ‘Castilian Sea.’ This spot attracts water sports enthusiasts as well as wine lovers, since here you can sample wines from the Mondejar region. The final stretch of the journey captures the essence of La Alcarria, introducing visitors to ancient crafts, local sweets, and archaeological treasures. Travelers pass through Auñón with its medieval bridge, Alhóndiga with its pillory, and Tendilla, renowned for its arcades and pastry shops. In Fuentelviejo, you can see an old oil mill, and in Hueva—the leaning tower. The route culminates with a visit to monumental Pastrana, home to the Ducal Palace and a Carmelite monastery. Farewell to La Alcarria takes place in Zorita de los Canes, where an imposing 9th-century Arab fortress stands, and opposite it lie the ruins of Recópolis—unique and one of the few Visigoth cities in Europe founded from the ground up. In this way, the route offers a chance to rediscover the province of Guadalajara, following the author’s advice: to tell honestly and simply what you see and feel along the way.
