For nearly two decades, Fernando has been the sole permanent resident of Benamira, Soria. His life highlights both the appeal and the challenges of Spain’s emptying rural heartland, where low costs meet a lack of basic services.
Fernando, 39, has spent the last 17 years as the only full-time resident of Benamira, a small village in southern Soria that once counted over 200 inhabitants. What began as a plan to save on rent for a few months turned into a long-term commitment to a way of life few would choose—and even fewer sustain.
He works weekdays maintaining local roads, but his days are shaped by routines that city dwellers rarely experience: running through the hills, tending a vegetable garden, reading, cooking, and writing. Humor is part of his survival strategy. “I’m a stand-up comedian by necessity—there’s no one else to talk to,” he jokes.
Despite the isolation, Fernando insists his solitude is a conscious choice, not a sentence. He rejects the label of hermit. His job brings him into contact with others, and on weekends, Benamira briefly comes alive as families return to their ancestral homes. Of the 58 houses still standing, only two are used year-round; most open only in summer or for short visits. For many, Fernando’s presence is a reassurance—he is the unofficial caretaker, the one who keeps watch when everyone else is gone.
Life Far from Madrid
Fernando’s decision to stay is rooted in both economics and personal preference. He earns about €1,500 a month and spends roughly half, covering food, utilities, and transport. With no rent to pay—he lives in a family home—his cost of living is a fraction of what it would be in Madrid, where a single room can cost as much as €700 monthly. Renting an entire house in Benamira, by contrast, might cost just €200–250.
He believes these numbers point to a real alternative for those priced out of Spain’s cities. Yet, he is clear-eyed about the obstacles. The nearest hospital is 90 kilometers away, public transport is nonexistent, and power outages are common. “Here, we’re completely on our own,” Fernando says.
The Challenge of Repopulation
Interest in rural life is not lacking. According to Fernando, Benamira has received more than 400 inquiries from people hoping to move there. But without a coordinated plan or resources to support new arrivals, the village remains largely empty. The lack of public housing and basic services makes it difficult to reverse the tide of depopulation—a problem affecting much of rural Spain.
Still, Fernando has no regrets. Asked what he would do if offered a free apartment in Madrid, he answers without hesitation: “I’d take the keys, rent it out, and come back here.” He imagines his future in Benamira, perhaps with a family, but always with the peace he found 17 years ago.
Spain’s “emptied” villages like Benamira are at a crossroads. While the low cost of living and tranquility attract some, the absence of infrastructure and support keeps most away. As the country debates how to revive its rural heartland, stories like Fernando’s highlight both the promise and the limits of life on the edge of abandonment.
