High in the Picos de Europa mountains, among rocky peaks and emerald valleys, there lies a place where time seems to follow its own rules. This is Tielve, an Asturian village nestled almost 700 meters above sea level. At first glance, it appears to be just one of many mountain settlements scattered across northern Spain, with a population barely reaching fifty souls. Yet it is here, in silence and seclusion, that one of the world’s most prized delicacies is crafted—a delicacy that has brought this land renown far beyond its borders.
The secret of the mountain cave
International recognition came to Tielve after the 53rd Cabrales cheese competition. At that time, the “Ángel Díaz Herrero” dairy made headlines everywhere after selling a wheel weighing just under two kilograms for the staggering sum of €37,000. This event secured the local product’s reputation as the most valuable in its category. The secret of its exclusivity lies in centuries-old production traditions. It is made from the milk of cows grazing on alpine meadows, and the key stage—maturation—takes place in natural limestone caves such as Los Masos, located at an altitude of 1,500 meters. There, in unique humidity and temperature conditions, the cheese spends months transforming into a true work of art. The painstaking labor makes each wheel unique, coveted by collectors and haute cuisine connoisseurs. In addition to the record-holder, other family businesses like “Francisco Bada” and “El Duque” also contribute to Tielve’s reputation, strengthening the village’s status as one of the main producers of Cabrales with Protected Designation of Origin (DOP). Its intense aroma and unparalleled flavor impress even the most discerning tasters.
Life in a Stone Labyrinth
Tielve is more than just a gastronomic destination. It is a place with a unique atmosphere, shaped by traditional stone houses, arched bridges over the Duje River, and the majestic landscapes of the Portudera ridge. Despite its modest size, the village has become a magnet for travelers seeking authenticity and tranquility. Visitors are greeted not only by scenic views, but also by the chance to experience local culture. At the restaurant El Carteru La Bolera, whose tables overlook the mountain slopes, you can taste not only the famous blue cheese but also other dishes of Asturian cuisine: fabada, tortos corn cakes, or traditional kid goat stew. This is a place where you can truly slow down and enjoy the moment.
Along the paths of ancient shepherds
For outdoor enthusiasts, Tielve serves as an ideal starting point for hiking. One of the most picturesque routes connects it to Sores, passing through oak groves, by ancient shepherds’ huts and livestock watering holes. Another trail, leading to Arenas de Cabrales, follows the ancient Roman road Carou. This challenging route stretches for over 13 kilometers and rewards hikers with breathtaking views. There is also a more accessible but equally impressive trail to Sores—a nine-kilometer trek with panoramic views of Picu Urriellu, also known as Naranjo de Bulnes. For those seeking a middle ground, there is the circular 11-kilometer Peña Maín route, which winds through pastures and offers unforgettable panoramas. The surroundings also feature other attractions, including the San Cristóbal de Tielve church, restored in 2016, and neighboring villages such as Asiegu, recognized as an exemplary Asturian village in 2019. All of this makes Tielve a must-visit destination for those looking to combine gastronomy, nature, and tradition in a single trip.
