Spain is a land of stunning contrasts, where every turn can reveal something completely unexpected. Beyond its world-famous resorts and sun-drenched beaches lie places far removed from tourist routes, preserving their pristine beauty and unique atmosphere. One such treasure is the northern coastline, particularly Asturias—a land of green valleys, towering cliffs, and ancient fishing traditions. Here, far from the bustle of big cities, visitors can discover a corner that transports them to another era.
This is about the tiny island of Carmen, located near the picturesque seaside village of Luanco. This small patch of land rises above the crashing waters of the Bay of Biscay, directly across from the beaches of El Dique, Gargantera, and Aramar. The island’s defining feature is its fleeting accessibility. It can only be reached from the mainland twice a day, during low tide. In these brief windows, the sea recedes to reveal a sandy-rocky causeway, allowing visitors to walk across to the island. This momentary connection to the land transforms an ordinary stroll into a real adventure—hesitate too long, and the return path disappears beneath the advancing waves.
At the highest point of the island stands a small yet captivating chapel, watching over the endless sea like a silent guardian. Its history dates back to the early 18th century. According to local legend, the chapel was built in 1701 by a sailing ship captain named Agustín Álvarez. During one of his voyages, his ship was attacked by an English privateer. Facing a hopeless situation, Álvarez prayed to the Virgin of Carmen, the patroness of sailors, promising to build a shrine in her honor if he survived. Salvation came miraculously, and the captain kept his word by erecting this chapel atop the rocky cliff—a beacon of faith for generations of local fishermen.
Like any place steeped in history, Isla de Carmen is shrouded in mystery and legend. One theory suggests that the chapel was built on the site of a much older structure—a Roman temple, whose ruins may still rest beneath its foundation. Another popular tale tells of a hermit named Santos who, according to rumor, spent several years on the island in complete solitude. He lived in harmony with nature, observing the wild character of the Cantabrian Sea and finding deep spiritual meaning in its power and beauty.
Traditions linked to the island are still alive today. Every year on July 16, the day of the Virgen del Carmen, dozens of sailors from across the region gather here. They stage a vibrant procession to honor their patron saint and ask for her protection in their perilous trade. This place, where rugged nature intertwines with deep faith and centuries-old history, is an ideal destination for a brief escape to unwind from the hustle and experience the magic of the Asturian coast.
