In Catalonia, far from the bustling tourist trails, lies a place capable of reshaping your understanding of Spain’s ancient history. Amidst fields and vineyards, ruins stand that don’t just tell of the past—they make you feel it firsthand. This is Ullastret, a town where archaeologists uncovered the largest Iberian city in the region, once the capital of the powerful Indigetes tribe. This discovery has not only shifted scientific views on the development of civilization in northeastern Spain, but also transformed the small settlement into a magnet for history buffs and seekers of cultural discoveries.
Today, Ullastret is more than just an open-air museum. Here, you can walk streets paved over two thousand years ago, see the remnants of formidable defensive walls, and imagine the vibrant life in a city that once housed more than 6,000 people. The grandeur of the ancient structures is striking: archaeologists have managed to reconstruct the street layout, residential buildings, and even uncovered a massive ditch that once defended the city from its enemies. The immersive virtual 3D reconstruction makes the past come alive, allowing you to step directly into the heyday of Iberian civilization.
Ancient secrets
The uniqueness of Ullastret lies not only in the scale of its archaeological finds but also in their remarkable preservation. At the top of Puig de Sant Andreu hill, fragments of ancient city walls are still visible. Nearby on the islet of Illa d’en Reixac, archaeologists have discovered a second, equally mysterious settlement center. Both sites were interconnected, forming a complex urban system closely linked to trade and cultural exchange with the Greek colony of Empúries.
Since 2012, extensive excavations have been underway here, allowing researchers not only to reconstruct the appearance of the ancient city, but also to understand how its inhabitants lived. Everyday items, jewelry, weapons and pottery have been uncovered, giving scholars an opportunity to recreate the daily life of the Iberians. Special attention is paid to the defensive structures: powerful walls and a deep moat testify to the persistent threat of attack and the need to protect the city’s wealth.
Medieval charm
Despite its ancient history, modern Ullastret has preserved its medieval character. In the town center, the remains of 13th- and 14th-century fortress walls and ten watchtowers rise above the settlement, giving it a distinctive atmosphere. Narrow, cobblestone streets lead to the Romanesque church of Sant Pere, adorned with Lombard details and three apses. Here, time seems to stand still: peace, tranquility, and a feeling of seclusion make this place ideal for leisurely walks and reflections on the eternal.
The Gothic market square, located outside the fortress walls, is a reminder of the times when Ullastret was a major trading hub of the region. Today, visitors can admire its architecture and savor local cuisine that surprises with a blend of tradition and contemporary culinary trends.
Gastronomic discoveries
A trip to Ullastret would not be complete without exploring its gastronomy. One of the city’s most renowned restaurants offers a special Iberian menu where ancient recipes meet modern flavors. The menu features seafood like pop-roca and baked langoustines, as well as lobster fideuà, all paired with white wine from the Penedès region. The meal concludes with the famous recuit de drap—a delicate fresh cheese made according to age-old recipes and considered a true symbol of Empordà.
Ullastret’s gastronomic traditions are closely linked to the surrounding vineyards and agriculture. Local wines and produce have long earned recognition not only in Catalonia but also beyond. For gourmets and lovers of authentic flavors, this place is a real discovery, turning every meal into a brief journey through time.
A journey into the past
Getting to Ullastret is easy: from Girona, a scenic road GI-644 leads here, while from Barcelona, the AP-7 highway offers a convenient exit onto local routes. Along the way, you’ll enjoy views of rural landscapes, vineyards, and ancient villages, making the journey as captivating as the stay itself. For those seeking not only historical discoveries but also a chance to escape the city bustle, Ullastret is the perfect destination for a short trip or a weekend getaway.
This place owes its special charm to the combination of ancient ruins, medieval architecture, and modern infrastructure. Here, you can immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the past and enjoy the comfort offered by local hotels, restaurants, and wineries. Ullastret exemplifies how history and modernity can harmoniously coexist, creating a unique space for leisure and discovery.
The town of Ullastret holds a special place in the cultural and historical heritage of Catalonia. Its archaeological complex is recognized as one of the most significant in Spain and is included on the list of UNESCO-protected sites. Thanks to the efforts of local authorities and enthusiasts, the ruins of this ancient city have not only been preserved but also made accessible to the public. Today, Ullastret is not just a tourist attraction but a living testament to the region’s centuries-old history, where every stone holds a secret. For researchers, travelers, and anyone interested in the past, this destination offers new perspectives and invites you to see Catalonia from a different angle.
