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Estella-Lizarra: The Medieval Jewel of Navarre on the Camino de Santiago

Forget Pamplona – Discover the True Capital of Medieval Navarre

Hidden in the heart of Navarre lies an ancient town that has welcomed travelers on the Ega River for centuries. Its streets have seen kings and pilgrims pass by. Discover its rich heritage.

Just over forty kilometers from vibrant Pamplona, nestled in a picturesque bend of the Ega River, lies a small town where time seems to have stood still for centuries. Estella-Lizarra, founded back in 1090 by order of King Sancho Ramírez, is much more than just a dot on the map of Navarra. It is the living heart of the famed pilgrimage route, a crucial crossroads that for centuries has seen thousands pass through in search of spiritual enlightenment—or simply adventure. Its unique location turned the settlement into a true ‘way-town,’ where every cobblestone sidewalk bears the imprint of pilgrims’ sandals from all across Europe.

The true symbol of the town is the La-Carousel Bridge, nicknamed ‘the pointy one’ by locals for its steep curve. Its single, mighty stone arch spans the waters of the Ega, serving as the gateway to the historic center. The moment you cross it, you find yourself in a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with stately mansions bearing coats of arms and ancient arcades. Here, the past is not a museum piece but a part of everyday life—you can feel it in every corner.

The architectural heritage of Estella is truly impressive. The crown jewel is the Palace of the Kings of Navarra, a unique example of 12th-century Romanesque civil architecture, now home to the Gustavo de Maeztu art museum. Just steps away stands the Church of San Pedro de la Rua, famous for its stone cloister and sweeping panoramic views—a true landmark of the city. Other churches are no less remarkable: the mysterious Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the monumental San Miguel, the Basilica del Puy, as well as remnants of the old Jewish quarter. Together, they are a testament to centuries of coexistence between different cultures and religions. Even in the medieval Codex Calixtinus, this place was described as a land “rich in good bread, excellent wine, and full of every blessing”—a description that still holds true today.

Modern Estella-Lizarra has lost none of its charm. Its squares are perfect for leisurely strolls, and the many bars are inviting spots to pause and soak in the moment. Nature lovers will find scenic trails winding along the river and over the surrounding hills. Particularly notable is the Los Llanos promenade—an ideal place to relax in the shade of the trees. And in summer, a true local curiosity draws crowds: a riverside beach with salty waters, famous for their healing properties.

Gastronomy is a distinct chapter in this region’s story. Local taverns invite you to discover the authentic flavors of Navarra. Here, you’ll find tender lamb cooked ‘al chilindrón’, freshly caught river trout, and of course, the famous ‘piquillo’ peppers roasted over an open flame. All these delicacies are paired with a glass of robust local wine. For many people, including the region’s most famous native, TV host Mariló Montero, coming back here is always a return to their roots, to where it all began.

Getting to this historic corner is easy. The town is well connected by public transport. It takes around 40 minutes from Pamplona and 45 minutes from Logroño. Regular bus lines link it with both regional capitals. The bus station is just a short walk from the historic center, so you can start exploring its treasures immediately. Estella-Lizarra captures the essence of Navarre: living history, warm hospitality, stunning nature, and that unique charm which, as the local saying goes, can only truly be appreciated when experienced firsthand.

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