Far from the bustle of big cities, in the heart of the Lugo province, lies a corner of unspoiled Galician nature that can surprise even the most experienced traveler. Here, among dense forests where the air is thick with moisture and the scent of fallen leaves, flows the Sarria River. It is along its winding banks that one of the region’s most enchanting hiking routes stretches out, known as Ruta As Aceas. This is more than just a walk—it’s a true immersion into a world where time seems to stand still, and the only soundtrack is the constant murmur of water and the song of forest birds.
Beneath the canopy of ancient trees
The journey is a circular route of about six kilometers, perfect for a relaxed family walk. The trail is well maintained: wooden walkways and railings ensure safety even on gentle slopes, making it accessible for all ages. Step by step, the path leads you deep into a mixed forest, where mighty chestnuts, oaks, alders, and maples form a dense green canopy that shelters you from the summer heat. Sunbeams filter through the leaves, painting whimsical patterns on the ground and creating a magical atmosphere. It’s easy to forget about daily worries here and completely lose yourself in the peace and harmony of the natural world. Informational boards placed along the way introduce you to the local flora and fauna, allowing you to spot what might otherwise go unnoticed—like a graceful heron by the water or the tracks of an elusive otter.
Mills That Remember the Past
The route, called “As Aceas,” owes its name to the ancient watermills, which are its main ethnographic attraction. These stone structures, which for centuries used the power of the river to grind grain, now stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era. Along the trail there are four mills—Acea de Abaixo, Acea de Riba, Muíño do Conde, and Muíño do Regueiro—as well as five small dams that once directed water into the required channels. Each mill has its own character and history. Looking at the moss-covered walls and massive millstones, it’s easy to imagine the bustling life here several centuries ago. These buildings are not just ruins; they are an important part of Sarria’s cultural heritage, carefully preserved and integrated into the natural landscape.
Secrets of the Forest Trail
In addition to man-made landmarks, the trail also hides genuine natural treasures. In a secluded corner, concealed behind a curtain of greenery, you’ll discover the picturesque Fervenza do Rego da Sensa waterfall. Its waters crash down from a modest height, creating an oasis of coolness and freshness. It’s the perfect spot to take a break and snap a few memorable photos. Another point of interest is the mysterious Gaspar Cave. According to local legend, during the Spanish Civil War, a man named Gaspar hid here to escape persecution. This story has become part of the folklore of Sarria’s residents, for whom the cave stands as a symbol of resilience and shared memory. For many locals, this place is still associated with summer hikes and childhood adventures.
A Practical Guide for Travelers
You can start your walk from two points: the municipal football field of A Ribela or the Malecón riverside promenade in the heart of Sarria. The route forms a logical loop, culminating at the wooden Fafian Bridge, which offers a stunning view of the river. Crossing to the other bank, you begin your return journey, discovering new perspectives and impressions along the way. As Aceas is beautiful at any time of year. In spring, the forest awakens and fills with vibrant colors; in summer, it offers cool shade; in autumn, it glows gold and crimson; in winter, it takes on a rugged, graphic beauty. This is a place to disconnect from digital noise, enjoy the sounds of nature, and discover the authentic, untouristy heart of Galicia.
