In the 1920s, northern Spain became much more than just another stop on the map for a young Ernest Hemingway. The land of Euskadi, with its rugged beauty, welcoming people, and unique traditions, left a profound mark on the future Nobel laureate’s work. Today, anyone can follow in the footsteps that once inspired the author of “The Old Man and the Sea,” thanks to a specially designed cultural and tourist route. This journey connects coastal and inland regions, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the atmosphere that captivated the American literary icon.
Supported by regional tourism authorities, the project consists of six consecutive segments that meticulously recreate the writer’s actual trips across Spain’s northern provinces. The route can be completed in full by car or explored in sections, with guidance provided by local tourist information services. It’s worth noting that neighboring Navarra also offers a similar tour dedicated to the life and works of the famous American author.
The journey begins in San Sebastián. The first stage, inspired by the novel “The Sun Also Rises” (“Fiesta”), covers 35 kilometers to the Bay of Txingudi, passing through Pasaia, Hondarribia, and Irun. It was here that Hemingway captured the tranquility and vibrancy of the Basque people. The next stretch, 76 kilometers long, takes you from Donostia to Eibar. Together with the artist Ignacio Zuloaga, the writer discovered the majestic cliffs of the Basque Coast Geopark, which became one of the most vivid memories of that trip.
From Eibar, the road turns toward the Bay of Biscay, to the town of Bermeo. This segment passes through key places such as Gernika, Busturia, and Mundaka. The scenery transforms dramatically: dense forests replace the cliffs, and the air fills with the scent of salt and fresh fish from the local ports. The fourth stage, named after “The Dangerous Summer,” connects Bermeo and Bilbao. It follows secondary roads winding along the jagged coastline, reflecting the author’s deep fascination with the region’s maritime culture.
The fifth stretch connects two capitals: Bilbao and Vitoria-Gasteiz. For 110 kilometers, Hemingway enjoyed the local wine and leisurely conversations, which he considered an essential part of the Basque character. The final leg returns travelers from Vitoria to San Sebastián via Tolosa along the old N-1 road. This transition symbolizes the journey from the “wine paradise” of Rioja Alavesa to the “cider kingdom” on the Cantabrian coast. Tolosa, known as the world’s beret capital, is a reminder of one of the writer’s favorite accessories, which he nearly always wore.
This journey is more than a collection of tourist spots. It’s a year-round cultural experience where literature intertwines with gastronomy and nature. The route offers visits to family-run wineries, traditional cider houses, and colorful coastal villages that have preserved their authentic charm. Each segment takes less than two hours to drive, giving travelers time to enjoy the contrasts that so amazed the author: from inland fogs to the crashing waves off the Zumaia cliffs, and the lively atmosphere of Biscay’s port towns.
