In the narrow, salt-wind-swept streets of the old town in one of the main ports of northwestern Spain, where the Atlantic sets the pace of life, stands a building that serves as a true portal to the past. Unlike the towering Gothic cathedrals, it doesn’t command attention, yet its significance in the cultural fabric of this land is hard to overstate. Here, faith, the sea, and stone have interwoven into a unique monument to the human spirit.
Construction of this basilica began in the 12th century and continued until the 14th century. Back then, it stood outside the city walls, surrounded by fields—a location that gave it its name, “in the field.” Originally modest, the structure quickly gained immense significance for the locals, especially among guilds of sailors. They would come here to seek blessings before setting out on perilous voyages, and upon returning home safely, they would give thanks in this very place. For ocean-goers, it was more than just a house of prayer—it was a true spiritual beacon. Its growing authority was recognized in 1441 when it was granted collegiate status by the Archbishop of Compostela, a distinction later affirmed by a papal bull from Pope Eugene IV.
The architectural appearance of the basilica is a fascinating narrative frozen in time. Its facades are an open book for those who observe closely. The main portal is adorned with a tympanum depicting the Adoration of the Magi, crafted with remarkable detail for its era. The north entrance tells the story of the martyrdom of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Towering above is a stern 15th-century bell tower, while the elaborate 14th-century Gothic rose window adds elegance to the facade. Inside, the space is arranged into three naves without a transept, creating an atmosphere that is both intimate and austere. In the dim light, one can see medieval tombs and intricately carved capitals on the columns, featuring not only biblical scenes but also everyday life. Particular attention should be paid to the finely crafted silver altar and the stone cruzero cross in the courtyard, dating back to the late 15th century.
Today, it is far more than just a static exhibit. The structure holds the status of a Site of Cultural Interest and continues to play a vital role in the life of the city. It houses the Museum of Sacred Art, which contains precious liturgical artifacts attesting to a rich past. For travelers and researchers, this is a key destination, offering a deeper understanding of the spirit of this coastal region, its inseparable bond with the ocean, and its profound spiritual roots. It is not merely a landmark, but a living chronicle where every detail has its own voice and meaning.
