Just over an hour’s drive from bustling Madrid lies a world that follows its own rules. Here, where the Castilian plains meet the first ridges of the Sierra de Ayllón mountains, time seems to slow down. In this land, nature acts not just as a backdrop but as the chief architect, for centuries dictating how and from what people should build their homes. This is how the unique route through Segovia’s colorful villages was born—a journey into the very heart of a land that has generously shared its shades with mankind: from vibrant reds to deep blacks and warm golden hues.
These settlements are not tourist attractions but living history set in stone. Their palette is determined solely by geology. For centuries, locals used whatever they found underfoot: iron-rich clay, slate, and quartzite. The result is a stunning harmony, where every building forms an integral part of the surrounding landscape. Visiting here is a chance to see an unvarnished Spain, to hear the silence, and to experience authentic rural life that has retained its traditions in defiance of the changing winds.
Earth’s palette: fiery red walls
The first and perhaps most striking stop on this journey is Madriguera. This village, with a permanent population of no more than thirty people, welcomes visitors with the warmth of its reddish walls. It feels as if the houses weren’t built, but rather grew straight out of the earth, absorbing its iron-rich hue. Narrow cobblestone streets weave between clay and stone buildings, creating the sense that you’ve landed on another planet. There’s no place for bustle here. Every façade, every tiled roof—everything follows a single color code that gives this place its unique atmosphere of comfort and tranquility. A stroll through Madriguera is like meditation, a dive into a world where color has become synonymous with identity.
The stark beauty of black slate
El Muyo, the jewel of the so-called Black Villages, leaves an entirely different impression. While Madriguera envelops you in warmth, El Muyo captivates with its austere, almost ascetic beauty. The buildings here are made almost entirely of dark slate quarried from the surrounding mountains. These dark structures create a striking, dramatic contrast against the lush greenery of the Sierra de Ayllón. Wandering its unpaved alleys, it’s easy to imagine what life was like here centuries ago. The air seems heavier, the silence even deeper. This place has a special, stark magic—drawing in those who seek not just beautiful views on their travels, but powerful, genuine emotions.
The harmony of three shades and the legacy of stone
No journey would be complete without visiting places where nature has chosen to blend all its colors. In Martín-Muñoz de Ayllón, red clay, black slate, and golden flashes of quartzite merge in perfect harmony. This village showcases how different materials can coexist, creating a complex and captivating architectural pattern. The local church, dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours, and the breathtaking views from the Collado de las Cabras pass make a stop here a must. Interestingly, the slate from the local quarries was of such high quality that it was even used in the construction of the majestic Cathedral of Segovia. Nearby lies Villacorta, a village whose red appearance is mixed with dark flecks of slate, giving its walls a distinct, warm, and textured look. Here, you can not only admire ancient chapels and panoramic views from the lookouts, but also relax in a small local bar and experience the hospitality of rural Castile.
Ultimately, traveling through the colorful villages isn’t just about sightseeing. It’s a dialogue with history and nature. Each settlement has preserved its unique character, inviting visitors to discover the soul of authentic, non-touristy Segovia. And for those wishing to extend their stay in this remarkable region, the neighboring town of Riaza offers all the necessary amenities—from restaurants serving local cuisine to various lodging options—making this route a perfect weekend getaway.
