In the heart of the Sierra de Cádiz mountain range lies one of Spain’s most remarkable towns — Setenil de las Bodegas. This town, part of the famous Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos (‘Route of the White Villages’), draws travelers with its unique architecture: its houses are literally built into the rocks, and its streets are covered by natural stone vaults created by the landscape itself.
Setenil’s distinctive cityscape developed around a gorge carved by the Trejo river. For centuries, residents did not just build homes on the rocks, but instead used them as natural roofs and walls. This led to the creation of so-called casas-cueva, or cave houses. The most famous examples of this architecture are the streets Cuevas del Sol (‘Caves of the Sun’) and Cuevas de la Sombra (‘Caves of the Shade’). The former is always sunny, while the latter remains in shade almost year-round, providing a comfortable microclimate even during the hottest summer days.
The name of the town reflects its rich history. The word ‘Setenil’ comes from the Latin phrase ‘septem nihil’ (‘seven times nothing’), which, according to legend, symbolizes seven unsuccessful sieges before the town was finally captured by the Catholic Monarchs in 1484. The second part of the name, ‘de las Bodegas’ (‘of the wine cellars’), was added later to highlight the thriving winemaking in the area, with the rock caves serving as ideal storage for wine.
In addition to its unusual layout, Setenil de las Bodegas boasts a significant historical heritage. The town is dominated by a 12th-century Arab fortress, of which the main tower (Torre del Homenaje) remains, now serving as an excellent observation deck. Among the religious buildings, the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, designed in the Gothic-Mudejar style, stands out. Other points of interest include ancient chapels, the former town hall building, and an Arab water cistern (Aljibe árabe).
A visit to Setenil would be incomplete without exploring the local cuisine. In the many bars and restaurants situated directly under the rocks, you can try the region’s traditional dishes. Especially popular are chorizo sausages cooked in wine, hand-made meat delicacies, and local sweets such as cortadillos. Dining in such an unusual setting leaves unforgettable impressions and allows you to fully experience the atmosphere of this magical town.
