Galicia is full of hidden corners where time seems to flow differently. It’s a land of misty mountains, crystal-clear rivers, and forests that blaze gold and crimson in autumn. Amidst this untouched beauty lie villages that have preserved their authenticity: with cobbled streets, stone hórreos, and locals whose lives follow the slow rhythm of the countryside.
If you’re looking for an unusual route to escape the city rush, head into the depths of the Lugo province. There, in the heart of the Os Ancares region, lies the tiny village of A Pobra de Navia (also known as Puebla de Navia). This settlement in the Navia de Suarna municipality is home to just about 300 people, making it an ideal retreat for anyone seeking peace and solitude in autumn.
The village grew up along the banks of the Navia River, surrounded by deep valleys and dense forests that create an almost mystical calm. From the moment you arrive, you realize this is a special place, where every stone and bend in the river holds centuries-old secrets. The historic heart of the village is a medieval castle built to control an important crossroads. The fortress, known as the Castle of the Count of Altamira, stands atop a massive rock, dominating the river valley. Although much of the original structure has not survived or was rebuilt, it still carries the same air of mystery as other ancient Galician fortresses.
From the fortress walls, you can see the ancient bridge, A-Ponte-Vella, whose origins date back to the Romanesque era. This 15th-century stone structure with its tall pointed central arch is a true masterpiece of medieval engineering and one of the most photographed landmarks in the region. It stands as a living witness to history, spanning across the centuries. Both banks of the river offer recreation areas and swimming spots, perfect for a picnic or simply watching the water flow by against the backdrop of a blazing autumn forest.
The town itself has retained a reserved charm, with its traditional stone houses and wooden balconies, though signs of time and uneven restorations are also visible. The heart of community life is Chao-da-Torre Square, where historic buildings stand alongside more modern ones. This is a good starting point for a walk to the castle ruins, before diving into the maze of cobbled streets lined with hórreos, fountains, and other architectural details that reveal the soul of rural Galicia.
Despite its modest size, the village is home to the ‘Irmandade Naviega’ neighbors’ association. Its members work hard to protect and restore the area’s historical heritage, with a focus on the fortress, which has been recognized as a Site of Cultural Interest since 1994. Locals are fighting to preserve the town’s unique atmosphere and attract tourists, whose visits help their homeland thrive and develop.
Visiting A-Pobra de Navia in autumn is a truly magical experience. The slopes of the Os Ancares mountains light up in shades from green to copper, the air is filled with the scents of damp earth and wood smoke, and the sound of the river becomes the soundtrack to every walk. It’s the perfect time to explore hiking trails, discover neighboring villages, and of course, savor the local cuisine: game dishes, hearty Galician soup, empanadas, and artisanal cheeses.
