Barcelona in September buzzes and shimmers with lights. Thousands of locals and visitors pour into the streets to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of La Mercè, the city’s main annual festival. But behind the vibrant facade of celebration and the roar of fireworks lies another city, filled with unexpected details and alternative paths of development that many are unaware of. This fiesta is a perfect chance to look behind the scenes and discover what often goes unnoticed in the daily rush.
A symbol underfoot
As you wander through the city these days, you will undoubtedly walk on the famous ‘panot’ tiles. This paving element, with its four-petal floral pattern, has long become a hallmark of the Catalan capital. Its appearance was dictated by purely practical considerations in the early 20th century, when the municipality was looking for a way to standardize and reinforce the sidewalks of the expanding Eixample district. The floral design turned out to be the best solution and quickly spread throughout the city. Over time, the utilitarian purpose faded into the background, and the ‘panot’ became an integral part of the cultural code. Today, you can spot its image on souvenirs, and for locals, it serves as a warm reminder of home.
The neighborhood that almost disappeared
Many of La Mercè’s events, including performances by artists, take place in Raval, one of the city’s most vibrant and multicultural neighborhoods. But its fate could have been very different. In the 1940s, Swiss architect Le Corbusier presented a radical plan to redevelop the city center. His project, which went down in history as the ‘Plan Macià,’ called for the total demolition of most of the historic buildings. Monumental modernist apartment blocks were supposed to replace the narrow medieval streets. Had the plan been implemented, Raval would have lost its authenticity and distinctive spirit forever. Fortunately, the project remained on paper, allowing the neighborhood to preserve its unique character, which has become a major cultural and social stage for the city.
Human Towers as a National Legacy
During the festival, Plaça de Sant Jaume becomes the epicenter of a powerful emotional spectacle: the building of ‘castells’, human towers that are the quintessence of Catalan tradition. This practice originated in the 18th century in the Penedès region, and in 2010 it was recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Participants, known as ‘castellers’, unite in teams (‘colles’) to construct what seem like fragile towers, demonstrating perfect balance, technique, and mutual trust. The highlight comes when the youngest and lightest member, the ‘enxaneta’, climbs to the top and triumphantly raises a hand. This is more than acrobatics; ‘castells’ embody core local values: unity, solidarity, and perseverance.
Return of Legends and New Horizons
The Magic Fountain on Montjuïc is one of the most anticipated attractions of La Mercè. After more than three years out of operation due to drought, it is once again ready to dazzle audiences with its spectacle of light, music, and water. Inaugurated in 1929 as part of the International Exhibition, it became a true technical sensation of its time, thanks to the genius of engineer Carles Buïgas. Since then, it has been a symbol of innovation and creativity. Its evening shows have long attracted both tourists and locals. The reopening of the fountain is not only the return of an iconic landmark but also the restoration of a vital public space. For the first time this year, the amusement park on Tibidabo will join the celebrations, opening its doors to everyone free of charge. It’s a unique opportunity to experience the festivities from the highest point, where modernity meets eternity.
