In the very heart of Madrid, nestled between the green avenues of Retiro Park and the bustling city streets, lies a special haven for art lovers. Here, inside a 17th-century building that has survived the turbulence of history, visitors are greeted not only by silence but also by a stunning ceiling mural painted by the Italian master Luca Giordano.
This is the Casón del Buen Retiro, built in 1637 and miraculously spared when the palace complex was destroyed during the War of Independence. Today, it houses the Prado Museum’s Research Center, as well as one of Spain’s most little-known but invaluable art libraries.
A legacy of history and artistic value
The main pride of this place is its monumental ceiling fresco dedicated to the Order of the Golden Fleece. It glorifies the Spanish monarchy and recalls the era of the Habsburg dynasty. Thanks to this unique painting, the Casón survived when the rest of the palace was demolished and was painstakingly restored. Today, visitors can see about 80% of the original masterpiece that has been preserved to this day.
Outside, the building appears reserved and austere, but behind its doors lies a true temple of knowledge. The atmosphere here encourages study and reflection, and the collection of books and periodicals is truly impressive. The library holds more than one hundred thousand volumes, including rare editions, exhibition catalogs, ancient manuscripts, and art history materials spanning from the Middle Ages to the 19th century.
A place for art and history lovers
In the 20th century, these walls housed masterpieces of 19th-century painting from the Prado Museum collection, as well as Picasso’s famous painting ‘Guernica’, before it was moved to the Reina Sofía Museum. After major renovations in the 1990s, the building acquired a modern look while preserving its historic atmosphere.
Today, the library is open to anyone interested in art, architecture, and history. Here, you’ll find not only books but also posters, auction catalogs, audiovisual materials, and even unique resources for artists. Special focus is given to manuscripts created before 1910.
How to visit the library with Giordano’s frescoes
Every Sunday at noon, the Prado Museum offers free guided tours of the hall decorated with Giordano’s murals. To join, simply go to the reception desk at the entrance with your museum ticket—space is limited, so it’s best to arrive early. The tour lasts about an hour and each group has no more than 19 people.
The Casón del Buen Retiro is located at Calle Alfonso XII, 28, near Retiro Park and the Prado Museum. You can get here on foot, by metro (Banco de España and Atocha stations), or via city buses that stop on Paseo del Prado and Calle Alfonso XII. Suburban trains are also convenient, as Atocha station is just a few minutes’ walk away.
This place is a true discovery for those seeking inspiration and wanting to experience the history of Spanish art in an extraordinary setting.
