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The Perfect Autumn Weekend in Ciudad Real – A 48-Hour Route Through La Mancha

Don Quixote, witches, and submerged castles: what surprises await you in Spain’s forgotten province

Discover the heart of La Mancha. Explore unique natural parks. Visit historic towns and villages. Immerse yourself in the atmosphere of chivalric romances.

When the tourist trails along Spain’s coasts start to empty out with the arrival of cooler weather, the heart of the Iberian Peninsula offers a completely different and deeper experience. Just a two-day journey into the heart of Castile can become a true revelation, where great literature, monumental art, and the pristine beauty of nature intertwine. This is a rich program for those tired of standard guidebooks, seeking authenticity and wishing to understand the spirit of this region.

Dedicate the first day entirely to the contrast of water and stone. Start with the natural park Lagunas de Ruidera—a stunning cascade of fifteen turquoise lakes, connected by small waterfalls, streams, and underground currents. They stretch in a whimsical chain for 25 kilometers along the upper valley of the river Guadiana. A significant elevation drop of up to 120 meters between the first lake, Blanca, and the last, Cenagosa, creates breathtaking landscapes, especially in the gentle light of the morning sun. This is one of the most picturesque and important wetland complexes on the entire peninsula, a place of strength and tranquility.

After a complete immersion in nature, the road leads to Villanueva de los Infantes. This small town, rightfully included in the official association of the most beautiful villages in the country, feels as if it is frozen in the era of Spain’s Golden Age. Its magnificent Baroque Main Square, the monumental church of San Andrés, or the walls of the Santo Domingo monastery—where the great poet Francisco de Quevedo spent his last days—create a unique sense of stepping back in time. Every stone here seems to hold its own story. In the evening, the program invites you to visit the Tablas de Daimiel National Park. This area is a true paradise for birdwatchers and wildlife photographers, and is one of the key habitats for waterfowl in Europe. Watching the sunset from wooden walkways built over the water, listening to the chorus of birds, is an invaluable experience that brings peace of mind.

The second morning greets travelers with world-famous silhouettes. The ten windmills in Campo de Criptana, recognized as a site of cultural interest, stand proudly atop a hill, recalling Cervantes’ immortal work and his hero’s battle with imaginary giants. From here, there are panoramic views of the endless plains. A leisurely walk through the old Albaicín de Criptana district, with its whitewashed houses adorned with blue skirting and steep cobbled streets, enhances the experience and allows you to feel the rhythm of local life.

The grand finale of the trip is a visit to Almagro, recognized as the cultural capital of the Campo de Calatrava region. Its monumental Main Square, surrounded by elongated buildings and continuous green-glazed galleries, is unlike any other in Spain. Yet its main treasure is hidden in one of its courtyards—the Corral de Comedias. What makes this place unique is that it is the only open-air 17th-century theater in the world preserved in its original form and still hosting performances today. To find yourself within its walls, to sit on the wooden benches, is to touch living history of the world’s stage arts.

In just 48 hours, this land reveals its true, untouristy character. Here, every bend in the road promises new discoveries—whether it’s a landscape straight out of a book or an architectural masterpiece hidden from the crowds. Such a brief yet incredibly rich getaway leaves a lasting impression and a strong desire to return, to once again leisurely explore this authentic and honest corner of Spain.

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