When it comes to Catalan Modernism, the imagination instantly conjures up the whimsical creations of Antoni Gaudí, which have become the hallmark of Barcelona. However, the region’s architectural heritage is far broader and more diverse than it might seem at first glance. Beyond the typical tourist routes, deep in the heart of Catalonia, lie hidden gems that can impress even the most seasoned traveler. One such place can be found in the city of Terrassa—a building one might easily mistake for Gaudí’s work, but in reality, it is the creation of another master who reinterpreted and embodied the ideas of Modernism in his own unique way.
From Factory to Fairy-Tale Castle
This is the Masia Freixa, a structure that today is an undeniable symbol of the city and amazes everyone who sees it. Its story is anything but ordinary. Few realize that this graceful building with its flowing lines was originally built for a strictly utilitarian purpose. At the end of the 19th century, it housed a spinning factory owned by the influential Freixa family of industrialists. However, at the dawn of the 20th century, the head of the family, Josep Freixa, made a bold decision. He commissioned architect Lluís Muncunill to transform the industrial site into his family residence. This was when the magic began. Muncunill completely reimagined the space, abandoning rigid industrial shapes in favor of organic, almost living architecture.
The master’s touch—but not that one
The architect enveloped the old walls in waves of parabolic arches, crowned the roof with elegant vaults, and flooded everything with a dazzling white, making the building literally glow under the Mediterranean sun. The influence of Gaudí’s aesthetic here is undeniable, seen in the flowing forms and the pursuit of harmony with nature. Yet, Muncunill was not simply an imitator. He brought many original solutions to the project, such as his masterful use of the traditional Catalan vault and the creation of a unique rhythm on the facade by alternating concave and convex surfaces. The result is something truly special—a prime example of how a former factory can be reborn as a work of art, which was a rarity in architectural practice at that time. Every detail, from the glazed ceramic base to the intricate balconies, seems alive and dynamic.
The Living Heritage of Terrassa
The fate of the Masia Freixa was not limited to serving as a family residence. For many decades, its walls housed the City Music Conservatory, and the halls that once echoed with the noise of textile looms were filled with the sounds of music. Today, it is one of the most visited places in Terrassa, and since 2023 it has been officially recognized as a Cultural Asset of National Interest, highlighting its exceptional historical and artistic value. The building is located in the picturesque Sant Jordi Park, making a stroll around it especially enjoyable. Visitors are invariably impressed by the elegant tower with its spiral staircase and viewing balcony, offering views of the surrounding area. From here, one can imagine what life in Terrassa was like at the beginning of the 20th century, when the city prospered thanks to the textile industry and local manufacturers competed in building modernist mansions as symbols of their success and progressive outlook.
A practical look at the gem
The Masia Freixa’s location in Parc de Sant Jordi, close to the center of Terrassa, makes it easy to combine your visit with other modernist landmarks in the city, such as the former vapor factory Aymerich, Amat i Jover, which now houses the Museu de la Ciència i de la Tècnica de Catalunya. Please note that restoration work has been underway in the building since May 14, so the tourist office has temporarily relocated to the nearby Casa Soler i Palet. Travelers planning a trip to Barcelona might consider setting aside a day to visit Terrassa. A suburban train will take you from the bustling capital to this charming city in just 40 minutes, where peaceful parks blend with remarkable architectural treasures, offering plenty of new experiences.
