When the vibrant colors of autumn transform the banks of the mighty Ebro River, a remarkable place in La Rioja comes to life, where time seems to pause to the whisper of water and the calls of birds. This untouched natural haven, seldom found in tourist guides, harbors one of the river valley’s most precious treasures. It is the Sotos de Alfaro nature reserve, whose uniqueness lies in the ever-changing course of the river itself. Here, the Ebro meanders freely, shaping whimsical bends, islands, and oxbow lakes that become home to dense riverside forests.
These forests, or “sotos,” form a true mosaic of poplars, willows, ashes, and alders. They make up one of the most significant and best-preserved ecosystems along the middle reaches of the Ebro. A walk along specially designed trails lets you observe the lives of white storks, herons, cormorants, and kingfishers—all without leaving La Rioja. The landscape here offers tranquility, rich biodiversity, and an almost total silence, broken only by the sounds of nature.
The area was designated as a protected site in 2001, following the approval of a natural resource management plan. The reserve covers a total area of 933 hectares, of which 476 hectares are strictly protected within the riverbed, while the rest form a peripheral zone associated with traditional irrigated farming. The importance of this protection becomes clear when you consider that today, riparian forests occupy only 4.5% of the floodplain they once covered. Walking through places like Soto-la-Ducesa or Soto-del-Estajao, you can almost read the history of these lands: dense groves up to 15 meters high, tangled thickets of blackberry and hawthorn, and floodplain meadows where reed and bulrush thrive.
This place serves as a safe haven for many bird species, both nesting and migratory—from the black kite to the lesser spotted woodpecker. In addition, these waters attract mammals whose lives are inextricably tied to the river. Among them are the otter and the European mink, a species on the brink of extinction. This highlights the exceptional ecological value of the reserve.
For hiking enthusiasts, three simple and well-marked trails are available here. The first is the Estajao loop trail, which passes through a floodplain forest. The second is the Alfaro–Arboretum–Soto de la Nava route, approximately 4 kilometers long. The third follows the Estajao meander, starting from the parking area and passing through a viewpoint overlooking the Alhama River. All the trails offer shade, proximity to water, and ever-changing landscapes, making the walks enjoyable and easy.
A visit to the reserve wouldn’t be complete without exploring the nearby town of Alfaro. Its main attraction is the collegiate church of San Miguel, built in the 17th century. This monumental building has become the true symbol of the town thanks to a huge colony of storks that nest on its roof every year. Directly opposite the church is the Reserve Interpretation Center, where you can plan your visit and observe the lives of the birds in detail via a camera focused on their communal nest. It’s a great opportunity to learn more about the feathered inhabitants of the region.
Getting to the reserve is very easy: it is located right on the outskirts of Alfaro and is conveniently accessible via the AP-68/A-68 highway. You can also take a regional train from Zaragoza or connect from Logroño. Whether you’re planning a quick visit for a few hours or a full day trip, Sotos de Alfaro proves that La Rioja is not just about wine, but also boasts stunning natural beauty—especially in autumn, when the landscape reveals its true splendor.
