In the heart of the Sierra del Segura mountain range in Albacete lies a story that has forever linked cinema with three unique small towns. Aýna, Liétor, and Molinicos were made famous by one of the most unusual films in Spanish history. In the summer of 1988, director José Luis Cuerda—a native of these lands—chose these familiar landscapes to bring his immortal creation to life. Decades later, this work, which has become an object of true devotion, has lost none of its magic and continues to attract new followers who call themselves “amanesistas.”
The secret of its enduring popularity lies in its distinctive surreal humor and bold narrative tone. Many travelers visit these places, reciting the film’s lines by heart. The film itself is a kind of La Mancha-style western: strangers arrive in a town where anything is possible. Packed churches, opera arias in taverns, debates about free will and Faulkner… And the cast, according to Luis García Berlanga himself, was the best in the history of national cinema.
Responding to growing interest, in 2010 the authorities of Castilla-La Mancha officially opened a themed route that passes through all three towns. Along the way, information panels and sculptural installations have been set up, and there is a dedicated visitor center. Since 2011, a large gathering of enthusiasts from all over Spain takes place here every spring. They come together to walk through the iconic locations of the so-called “Manchegan Switzerland,” enjoying the gorges and views of the Río Mundo.
Ayna, the epicenter of the cinematic events, is located in an incredibly picturesque valley. The majority of the scenes were filmed here. Your first stop should be the Mirador del Diablo, offering that very final sunrise over the cliffs. At the entrance to the town, on the Rodea Grande square, stands the famous motorcycle with a sidecar. As you wander the steep streets, you’ll easily recognize the tavern with the opera, the pumpkin garden, the “nursery of men,” and Don Roberto’s classroom. On Calle Mayor 10, in the former Ermita de los Remedios, there’s an interpretation center featuring unique Mudejar-style ceilings and memorabilia from the filming location.
Liétor, perched above the Mundo River, is renowned for its historic center and aristocratic mansions. The main attraction here is the chapel of Nuestra Señora de Belén. Its interiors, decorated in the folk style of the 18th century, served as the setting for famous church scenes featuring the choir and the clandestine drinking of consecrated wine. In Plaza Conde, you’ll recognize the façade that, on screen, was both a barracks and a library, while its inner courtyard hosted women’s gatherings. If you have time, it’s worth visiting the crypt with mummies in the former Carmelite monastery.
Molinicos, part of which lies within the Calares del Mundo y de la Sima Natural Park, became memorable to viewers for its main square. It was here, outside the old town hall, that election announcements were made, the renowned flashback from August 24, 1947 was shown, and a rain of rice followed the prayer service. On Calle Molinos, the first scenes were filmed: the arrival of the protagonists on a motorcycle and a pivotal moment involving one character’s split personality. You can enhance your experience at the fascinating Mycology Museum, which is seamlessly integrated among the filming locations.
If you’re a fan of this film, plan a weekend trip to follow in the footsteps of the great Cuerda. Among the scenic viewpoints, chapels, and squares ‘where anything can happen,’ you’ll understand why this region has become a must-visit destination for film tourism in Spain.
