Far from the bustling tourist routes, in the very heart of Navarra, lies the Ulzama Valley—a land of emerald meadows and ancient forests. Here, amid pristine nature, is a village that seems to have stepped out from the pages of an old book. Iraizoz is not just a point on the map, but a portal to the past, where every stone and every house preserves the spirit of true northern Spain. With a population of just over two hundred, this place has retained its unique character and tranquil atmosphere, which is especially palpable in autumn, when the surrounding landscape ignites with gold and crimson hues.
The central artery of the village, Calle San Martín, gently leads travelers from a spacious square with a murmuring fountain to the parish church, built almost two centuries ago. A walk down this street is a true journey through history. There are massive mansions from the eighteenth century, and nearby—a stern Gothic tower, a silent witness to bygone eras. The facades of many buildings are adorned with old inscriptions telling the stories of families who have lived here for centuries. Iraizoz is known for its traditional houses: dazzling white walls, dark wooden cornices, and spacious balconies overflowing with flowers. The local frontón and the tavern on the plaza are not just architectural landmarks, but hubs of community life, where conversation thrives and the spirit of good neighborliness endures.
But the charm of Iraizoz extends beyond its historic center. Take a step outside the village, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by dense forests and green pastures. Countless trails invite you for leisurely walks, especially beautiful during the autumn season. Nearby lies the unique Orgi oak forest, as well as the Micological Park of the Ulzama Valley, a true paradise for mushroom enthusiasts. For those seeking more active recreation, the proximity of the Belate Pass opens up routes to the peaks of Saioa and Adi. On one of them, Arañotz, sits the modest chapel of Santa Lucía—a simple rectangular building that houses a carved image of the saint, created in 1886. Every first Sunday of June, locals gather here for a popular pilgrimage—an enduring tradition that strongly connects generations and emphasizes the inseparable bond between people and nature in this region.
The journey to Iraizoz is an adventure in itself. The roads leading to the village wind through lush greenery, passing impressive Basque farmhouses known as caseríos. Getting there from Pamplona, just 25 kilometers away, is easy. You can take the route via Senotz or enter from the direction of Larraunzar. Upon arrival, you can leave your car either at the main square or drive up to the church, where parking is also available. A visit to this corner of Navarra would not be complete without exploring the local cuisine. Autumn is the perfect time to enjoy the gifts of the forest, especially seasonal mushrooms, and to try the famous sheep’s cuajada—a delicate curd dessert. This journey offers the chance not just to see, but to experience the authentic way of life, where everything follows the unhurried rhythm of nature.
