The Costa Brava coast is always associated with summer heat, secluded coves, and whitewashed seaside towns. Golden sunsets over the Mediterranean have made this corner of Catalonia one of the most sought-after holiday destinations. Yet off the well-trodden routes to Cadaqués or Calella de Palafrugell, there are places where time seems to stand still. One such hidden gem is Monells, a medieval village in the Baix Empordà region that reveals its true charm in autumn, when the tourist crowds fade and pristine silence reigns on its cobbled streets.
Arriving in Monells feels like stepping onto a historical film set. Its perfectly preserved old quarter invites you to take a leisurely stroll without any particular destination. Your footsteps echo on the stone pavement, while facades draped in ivy and bougainvillea create a unique atmosphere. The entire town grew around an ancient castle, of which only fragments of walls and towers remain—a silent testament to the feudal power that once ruled these lands.
The heart of the town is the Plaça Major, one of the most picturesque squares in the region. Gothic arcades line up here in perfect order, and on sunny days, the tables of local cafes and restaurants come to life under their arches. From here, narrow alleys branch out like rays. Carrer dels Arcs, with its stone vaults, has become Monells’ calling card and a favorite spot for photographers. And on Plaça de l’Oli, where olive oil was once traded, the spirit of craftsmanship and tranquility still lingers, attracting travelers in search of authenticity.
Another gem of the town is the Church of Sant Genís, first mentioned in the 11th century. Located on the other side of the river in the Riera district, it showcases a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles, the result of numerous renovations over the centuries. Its bell tower, visible from anywhere in town, seems to set the unhurried pace of local life.
A walk through Monells is truly a journey through time. Around every corner, a new story unfolds, and each wooden door or flower-adorned balcony seems to guard centuries-old secrets. One key advantage this place has over other villages in Empordà is the absence of tourist crowds. This lets you fully enjoy the experience, noticing every detail and listening to the silence broken only by the whisper of wind against the stones.
The surroundings of Monells are perfect for those who love walking through fields and forests. Several marked trails start here, such as the ‘Path of the Three Villages’, which connects Monells with Cruïlles and Madremanya. In autumn, as the landscape turns golden ochre, these trails transform into living canvases. For a family outing, there’s an unusual activity: visiting the Estación de la Vaca de Leche dairy farm. Here, visitors can learn about milk production in an interactive way, join workshops, and end the tour with a tasting that appeals to both adults and children.
The cuisine of Monells carefully preserves Catalan traditions. Local restaurants use ‘zero-kilometer’ ingredients, serve wines from Empordà, and offer desserts made from old family recipes. In the center, you’ll find grilled meats, Mediterranean fish, and stews with an inventive twist—an excellent way to recharge after a long walk. Those who choose to spend the night will find options for every taste, from rural homes surrounded by olive groves to cozy hotels in the historic center. The atmosphere is intimate and welcoming, ideal for escaping the city rush.
