Just half an hour by ferry from bustling Ibiza, and you find yourself in a completely different world, where time follows its own unhurried rules. Sant Francesc Xavier, the administrative center of Formentera, is the beating heart of the smallest of the Balearic Islands. Here, among dazzling white houses, artisan shops, and an ancient church that once served as a fortress against corsairs, the true Mediterranean spirit has been preserved.
The soul of the town is centered on Constitution Square. Here stands the parish church of Sant Francesc Xavier—a severe-looking building erected between 1726 and 1738. But it is more than just a place of worship. Its thick walls, iron-clad door, and massive vaulted ceiling speak eloquently of a time when pirate raids were a harsh reality for the locals. Unique architecture and historical significance have earned the church the status of a Site of Cultural Interest, making it one of the island’s most recognizable symbols.
Just a few steps from the main square lies another architectural relic, telling the story of the dawn of Christianity on these lands. The Sa Tanca Vella chapel, dating back to the 14th century, is a modest single-nave structure without any adornments—a true embodiment of the simplicity and humility of the first settlers. After its restoration, it has been opened to visitors, retaining the pristine charm of asceticism.
A stroll through the streets of Sant Francesc Xavier is a true immersion into the essence of Formentera. The white facades provide a perfect backdrop for vibrant cascades of bougainvillea, while the displays of local shops entice with ceramics, designer jewelry, and natural linen clothing. The relaxed atmosphere here, even at the height of summer, invites you to sit on a café terrace or wander among the stalls of the craft market, which operates daily from May to October. And on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, a lively flea market sets up in the Ses Eres garden just behind the church, where you can find vintage clothing, books, and antiques.
In addition to its architectural heritage, the town preserves corners linked to its agricultural and maritime past. One of the most remarkable is the old Fossar Vell cemetery, whose restoration project by local architect Maria Castello was a finalist for the prestigious FAD architecture award in 2017. From here, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the historic windmills of sa Miranda, which offer breathtaking panoramic views of the Estany des Peix lagoon, the port of La Savina, and the distant outlines of Ibiza on the horizon.
Those wishing to gain a deeper understanding of the island’s traditional way of life before the tourism boom should visit the Ethnographic Museum on Jaume I Street. Its collection features antique tools, household items, furniture, and national costumes. Sant Francesc Xavier also serves as the cultural capital of Formentera. For over ten years, the exhibition hall in the old town hall has showcased works by both local and visiting Spanish artists. Nearby is the Antoni Tur Center “Gabrielet”, which hosts workshops and exhibitions dedicated to crafts, nurturing the island’s creative spirit.
Many travelers come to Formentera for its turquoise beaches, yet in Sant Francesc Xavier they discover its true, hidden treasure. To the sound of the church bells and the whisper of the sea breeze, this small town embodies the very essence of the Mediterranean—beauty, history, and tranquility. It stands as living proof that the charm of the Balearic Islands can be found not only on Mallorca or Menorca, but also in quiet corners where tradition and modernity walk hand in hand.
