In northern Catalonia, where vineyards give way to old factories and historic estates hide behind stone walls, there is a town that seems to have slipped out of time. Castelló d’Empúries is not just another dot on the tourist map, but a place where every corner holds its own intrigue. Here, among medieval squares and narrow alleyways, winter takes on a special charm: silence pierced by the echo of history and a sense that a discovery awaits around every turn.
The town has long ceased to be the capital of the county, but its architectural heritage never lets you forget its former grandeur. The imposing basilica, which locals call their ‘cathedral,’ towers over the old quarter, as if reminding everyone of unfulfilled ambitions. It was never an episcopal seat, yet in scale and decoration it could easily rival the churches of Girona or Barcelona.
Fortress town
Castelló d’Empúries was once the political and commercial heart of the region. Traces of that era are scattered throughout the city: ancient squares that once bustled with life and gates preserving fragments of medieval walls. In the former Cúria building, where justice was once served and prisoners were held, there is now a museum where you can literally touch the past.
Particular attention is drawn to the Gallarda gate—the only surviving section of the city wall. Here, among the massive stones, it’s easy to imagine how the town once defended itself from invaders. And in the squares named for wine, oil, and cabbage, the spirit of traditional crafts is still palpable.
Gothic Gem
Inside the Basilica of Santa Maria lies a true treasure—an alabaster altarpiece over six meters high. This masterpiece, crafted by the French artist Pons Gaspar and his unnamed assistants, impresses with its intricate details and ethereal beauty. Each part of the altar seems to come alive in the twilight of the Gothic nave, and the basilica itself has long become a symbol of the city.
Despite lacking a bishop, the church was granted the status of a minor basilica and recognized as a national monument. Its story is one of ambition—ambitions that may not always lead to power, but leave behind something greater than just stone and stained glass.
Labyrinths and Legends
The cityscape is enriched by the maze-like streets of the old Jewish quarter, where it’s easy to lose your way even in broad daylight. Every house and alley has its secrets: some walls still bear inscriptions left by inmates of the medieval prison, and in old mansions you can almost hear echoes of long-lost festivities and tragedies.
Modern life here is closely intertwined with history. Follow the green path along the Muga River and you’ll reach Empuriabrava—a modern residential district with canals that stands in stark contrast to the ancient streets of Castelló d’Empúries. Just beyond lies the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park, home to rare birds and a favorite spot for locals to stroll.
Festivals and Flavors
The city’s gastronomy is a story in itself. Local products are held in high esteem here: duck, foie gras, and seasonal vegetables. Bakeries offer traditional sweets—bruels and rocs de Castelló—that you won’t find anywhere else. In winter, the city comes alive during the Candlemas festival, with processions in the streets and fairs and concerts in the old town center.
In autumn, Castelló d’Empúries transforms into the setting for one of Catalonia’s largest medieval festivals. Every September, it hosts Terra de Trobadors—a spectacular parade of musicians, artisans, and performers that transports visitors back to the 13th century. In November, the city commemorates the battle of 1874: the historical reenactment of the fight between Carlists and Liberals draws crowds and turns the streets into a battlefield.
How to get to the city
Getting to Castelló d’Empúries is easy. The AP-7 motorway leads here straight from Barcelona, with a drive taking just under two hours. From Girona, it’s only 45 minutes. For those who prefer public transport, the most convenient route is to take the train to Figueres and then transfer to a bus, which takes you directly to the city center.
The city welcomes everyone seeking hidden routes and new discoveries. You won’t find crowds of tourists here, but there is an atmosphere you won’t experience in popular destinations. Castelló d’Empúries isn’t just an open-air museum; it’s a living organism where past and present intertwine.
If you didn’t know, Castelló d’Empúries is not only a historic center but also a venue for major cultural events that attract visitors from across Catalonia every year. The city is renowned for its unique architectural heritage, and its Basilica of Santa Maria is considered one of the most impressive in the region. Here, you’ll find not only preserved Gothic monuments but entire neighborhoods where the medieval spirit is still alive. Castelló d’Empúries is the perfect destination for those who appreciate atmosphere, tradition, and unexpected discoveries.
