In the heart of Castilla-La Mancha, surrounded by the rugged landscape of the Cuenca province, lies the medieval gem of Alarcón. This is a place where time seems to stand still behind mighty fortress walls and along the winding banks of the Júcar River. Yet Alarcón’s greatest secret isn’t hidden in its famous castle, but behind the modest façade of the old church of San Juan Bautista. From the outside, nothing hints at the marvel that awaits travelers within. Every year, between 35,000 and 40,000 visitors from around the world come here to witness an extraordinary fusion of centuries-old history and avant-garde art.
Once, this was just an ordinary parish church, its current structure dating back to the 16th century. For centuries, it served as the spiritual heart of Alarcón’s community, until the 20th century saw it decommissioned and slowly fall into neglect. It seemed its story had come to an end. But in 1994, a new chapter began for the abandoned building. The artist Jesús Mateo chose these ancient walls as the canvas for his magnum opus—a project that demanded eight years of monumental effort. From 1994 to 2002, he covered more than a thousand square meters of interior walls and vaults with monumental murals.
This project, supported by the local bishopric, attracted global attention even before its completion. In 1997, UNESCO recognized it as an initiative of international artistic interest. Today, upon entering, visitors find themselves transported to a completely different dimension. Instead of traditional church decor, they are enveloped by a whirlwind of color and abstract forms. Mateo’s frescoes are more than just decoration—they represent an entire philosophical concept, a visual allegory of the origins of life, humanity’s connection to nature, the primordial cave, and the infinite celestial vault. Dramatic contrasts of color, an expressive painting style, and monumental scale create a truly immersive experience. This is less an art gallery and more a space for meditation, evoking almost mystical sensations.
The transformation of the San Juan Bautista church has breathed new life not only into the building itself but into the entire tiny town, home to just over a hundred permanent residents. Thanks to this unique art installation, Alarcón has found its place on the world’s tourist map. The influx of visitors has given a powerful boost to the local economy. This example vividly illustrates how bold creative solutions can save historical heritage from oblivion and turn it into an attractive spot relevant to people today. Now, the former church is an integral part of Alarcón’s exceptional historic ensemble, standing alongside the imposing castle—now operating as a Parador—its medieval fortifications, and the picturesque gorges of the Júcar River. This place has become living proof of how art can reinterpret the past, filling it with new meanings and emotions.
