Amid emerald hills and the ceaseless whisper of the Cantabrian Sea lie postcard-perfect corners. Narrow streets, colorful house facades, salty air, and stone footbridges beckon you to slow your pace. This is one of those places where time moves gently, and tranquility has its own—albeit very brief—name. Just two letters on the map set this municipality apart from all others in the country.
It is located on the northern coast of Biscay, in the Busturialdea-Urdaibai comarca, recognized by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve. Just over an hour’s drive from bustling Bilbao, this fishing village with fewer than a thousand inhabitants brings together three centers—Najatua, Bedarona, and the town itself—all preserving their rural and maritime character. The local river divides the settlement into two banks, connected by four ancient pedestrian crossings that have withstood the test of centuries and the ebb and flow of the tides.
The settlement began as a refuge for fishermen in the 16th century, when residents of nearby hamlets started to settle near the river’s mouth. Its history is inseparable from that of the sea and mountains, marked by the ongoing tension and harmony between rural agricultural life and the port’s seafaring traditions. Across centuries, the area has preserved its historic look with stone arches, houses with wooden balconies, and alleyways filled with the scent of salt and freshly baked bread.
One of the main symbols of the municipality is the old, or “Roman,” crossing over the river, an image of which can even be found on the coat of arms. Nearby stand two main churches: San Juan Bautista in Renaissance style, and Santa María de Jesús with Baroque elements dating back to the 16th century. Both are part of the architectural ensemble that shapes the town’s identity, along with the town hall building, which now hosts exhibitions and cultural events.
The maritime spirit of this place is also reflected in the Belletxe, an old wooden and stone building on the quay that once served as a warehouse for fishing gear, and today becomes a stage for some of the most popular festivities, such as Sanjuanes or the summer festival that fills the streets with music, dancing, and visitors every August.
In addition, the town has a small urban beach, perfect for summer days, and the Atalaya coastal trail, which leads to the Talako Ama chapel, offering some of the best views over the Cantabrian Sea. Walking here feels as if time stands still amidst the reflections on the water and the vibrant colors of the facades.
Those who choose this village as a starting point will find countless treasures nearby. Just a few kilometers away lies Lekeitio, another of Biscay’s most picturesque towns, known for its famous Garraitz Island, which can be reached on foot at low tide. It’s also worth visiting Mundaka, the Basque surfing mecca, renowned for its legendary left-hand wave and the Santa Catalina chapel perched atop a cliff.
What makes this place remarkable is that it brings together all the charms of the Basque Country in one corner: the sea, the river, and a warm welcome. Nature and gastronomy enthusiasts should make a stop at Berroja Winery, located in the heart of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, where traditional Basque txakoli wine is produced. And if you’re looking for a more peaceful getaway, the neighborhoods of Natxitua and Bedarona offer rural trails, perfect for hiking or cycling among meadows, farmhouses, and with views of the ocean.
