From afar, this place seems impossible, an almost unreal refuge perched atop a plateau dropping steeply over an endless sea of forest. The structure, as if floating in the air, opens up horizons in every direction, and the true adventure begins long before you reach its summit. This is the Mare de Déu de Cabrera sanctuary, a medieval temple rising 1,308 meters high in the heart of the Collsacabra region, on the border between the comarques of Osona and La Garrotxa. The only way to reach it is on foot, and the challenge of the ascent is an integral part of its charm. The trail leads you over rocky stretches, past handrails, and along steps carved directly into the rock—a gentler version of a via ferrata.
The sanctuary is set on a cliff more than 1,100 meters high, offering truly breathtaking views over the Collsacabra valley and the Susqueda reservoir. On certain days, when the lowlands are wrapped in fog, you can witness the magical spectacle of a ‘sea of clouds.’ This natural phenomenon transforms the familiar landscape into a white, unearthly expanse, creating the sensation of standing on an island in the middle of a heavenly ocean.
The route begins at the Sant Julià de Cabrera church, where the paved road ends and the realm of mountains begins. The initial stretch is quite demanding and steep, slowing down travelers who have to move at a leisurely pace. Soon, the path narrows into a natural staircase that climbs up the rock face, constantly shaded by sprawling beech trees that keep the ascent cool. As you gain elevation, the landscape transforms into a stunning panorama. The Plana de Vic plain unfurls at the traveler’s feet like a masterfully crafted model, and on clear days, the distant contours of the Cadí mountain range, the Montseny massif, and even the famous Montserrat peak can be made out. In winter, the view becomes even more magical, as clouds blanket the valley and only the mountain peaks rise above them.
The choice of this location for construction was far from accidental. As early as the 12th century, a castle stood on this cliff, of which only faint ruins remain today. Later, after devastating earthquakes in the 15th century, the current sanctuary was built here between 1622 and 1641. It was erected in honor of the Virgin Mary, whose image, according to legend, was found in a nearby cave. Although the original statue was lost during the Civil War, a replica now occupies a central place in the church’s Romanesque nave. The church itself, a single-nave structure with an attached bell tower, has undergone several reconstructions throughout its history. Its austere, ascetic Romanesque style stands in striking contrast to the majesty of the surrounding landscape, making this site a haven of solitude and tranquility where time seems to have stood still.
Today, this site attracts not only pilgrims seeking spiritual solitude but also serves as a coveted destination for many hiking enthusiasts. From the rocky terrace surrounding the sanctuary, a unique panorama unfolds: to the north is the peak of Puig Sacalm, to the west — Pedraforca and Cadí, to the south — Montseny, and to the east stretch endless forest expanses. The flat summit of Cabrera is included in the popular hiking challenge “100 Cims” and offers an ideal spot to rest after the climb. There is even a small restaurant here where visitors can recharge before descending. It is here, at the summit, that the traveler truly understands why this sanctuary, suspended between sky and earth, has become one of the most treasured and protected secrets of the Catalan mountains.
