In the heart of Andalusia, at the foot of the majestic Sierra Nevada peaks, lies one of the region’s most impressive hiking trails. This is not just a mountain walk, but a real journey through history, where the rugged beauty of nature intertwines with the industrial heritage of the past. It’s a path that many tourists discover with surprise, offering a unique blend of shaded forests, breathtaking views, and abandoned mines that hold the secrets of a bygone era.
The history of this trail began not with leisurely travelers, but with hard labor. In the 19th century, it was built to provide access to copper and silver mines hidden in the mountains. Today, as you walk it, you’re following in the footsteps of miners from the past. The route, known as “Vértice de la Estrella,” starts from the San Juan Gorge and winds along the mountainside for nearly ten kilometers one way, following the swift flow of the Genil River. The total distance out and back is about 19 kilometers, requiring good physical condition and taking roughly six and a half hours. The difficulty is rated as moderate, but you shouldn’t underestimate the length and the ever-changing mountain terrain.
The journey begins in the cool shade of a grove where ash, maple, oak, and chestnut trees blend together. In autumn, this place becomes a true artist’s palette, alight with every shade of gold and crimson. Soon enough, the trail that leads deeper into the gorge introduces travelers to its first legend—a giant chestnut tree, over a hundred years old, respectfully called “Grandfather” by the locals. This forest patriarch stands as a silent witness to centuries of changing seasons. As you gain altitude, the forest thins out, and at one of the bends in the trail, known as Viso de las Nortes, a breathtaking panorama unfolds. Before you, in all their glory, rise the three-thousanders Alcazaba, Mulhacén, and Veleta—one of the most photographed and captivating vistas in the entire national park.
The trail then follows a path literally suspended above the Genil River. Along the way, silent witnesses of a bygone industrial era appear—half-ruined buildings and entrances to the “La Probadora”, “La Estrella”, and “La Justicia” mines. These ruins amidst the wild landscape create a unique, slightly melancholic atmosphere, encouraging reflection on how human activity once encroached upon these untouched places. After crossing the Guarnón stream, the trail leads to the picturesque El Real meadow, where several mountain streams merge. The most resilient and curious hikers can extend their adventure by another half hour to reach the natural grotto known as the “Secret Cave”.
Reaching the starting point is quite easy. Simply drive through the charming town of Güéjar Sierra and head towards Maitena. The road leading to the start of the route by the “Barranco de San Juan” restaurant is an attraction in itself, passing through narrow tunnels carved into the rock for the old tramway. On weekends, this route is highly popular, so it’s best to leave as early as possible to secure a parking spot. The most convenient return is by the same route; however, experienced hikers have an alternative, more challenging option. This involves fording the river and climbing the steep historic slope of Cuesta de los Presidiarios, which eventually rejoins the main trail.
