Height, solitude, and harsh nature define the reality of the highest village in La Rioja. El Horcajo, lost amid the Sierra Cebollera mountains, has long become a symbol of vanishing life in the Spanish highlands. Here, at nearly 1,300 meters above sea level, only four residents remain, in no hurry to leave their homeland despite hardships and the lack of familiar comforts.
The road to El Horcajo appeared only in 1992. Before that, it could be reached only on foot or horseback, making the village almost inaccessible to outsiders. Today, the winding route among pines and oaks takes no more than half an hour, but the feeling of isolation persists. All around are forests, pastures, and mists that often envelop the houses, as if hiding them from the rest of the world.
Mountain silence
Life in El Horcajo bears little resemblance to the usual rural idyll. There are no shops, schools, or even a post office. Residents have to travel to neighboring villages for groceries and medicine, and in winter snow can cut off the settlement for days. Yet it is precisely this remoteness from the hustle and bustle that attracts those who have stayed. The village is steeped in silence, broken only by the tinkling of cowbells and the rare voices of neighbors.
Old stone and wooden houses, the church of San Juan Bautista, and a few farm buildings—that’s all there is to El Horcajo. Life used to bustle here: shepherds worked, festivals brought people together, children filled the streets. Now, each day resembles the last, and change comes only with the weather. In summer, tourists sometimes stop by to glimpse the real mountainous Spain, but in winter, the village returns to its usual solitude.
Lumbreras de Cameros
El Horcajo is part of the Lumbreras de Cameros municipality—one of the most sparsely populated corners of La Rioja. Life here moves slowly, and people are used to relying only on themselves. Lumbreras has just over a hundred residents, most of whom work in agriculture or livestock breeding. In recent years, newcomers have arrived seeking refuge from city noise, looking for peace among the mountains.
Lumbreras has preserved traditions long forgotten elsewhere. Here, people still celebrate ancient festivals, gather mushrooms and berries, and share the news by the fire in the evenings. Despite modest means, the locals don’t complain about their fate. For them, the main things are freedom, fresh air, and the chance to live in harmony with nature.
The heights of La Rioja
El Orcajo is not the only high-mountain village in the region. In La Rioja, there are several more settlements where life quietly unfolds at altitudes over 1,200 meters. San Andrés, Santa Marina, Lumbreras, and Viniegra de Arriba—each of these places preserves its own history and distinctive atmosphere. Here you won’t find crowds of tourists, but you’ll discover the authentic Spain rarely seen on postcards.
The highest point in La Rioja is San Lorenzo Mountain, rising 2,271 meters above sea level. Its slopes attract hikers and winter sports enthusiasts. On the southern slopes, the Valdezcaray ski resort operates, drawing snow lovers from across Spain during the winter. Yet even here, at the region’s summit, you can come across shepherds who have led their flocks along mountain trails for centuries.
The fate of mountain villages
In recent decades, many mountain villages in La Rioja have found themselves on the brink of disappearance. Young people move to the cities, while the elderly are left alone among empty houses. Authorities strive to keep these places alive by repairing roads, providing internet access, and organizing cultural events. Still, restoring the former population levels remains a challenge.
Nevertheless, mountain villages offer their own advantages. Here there are no traffic jams, noise, or air pollution. People live in tune with nature, value simple pleasures, and don’t chase after trends. For many, these places become a true refuge from the modern world—a place to find peace and inspiration.
El Orcajo is a unique spot on the map of La Rioja. This tiny village, despite all challenges, continues to endure. Its residents never give up and believe that even in Spain’s most remote corners, true life persists. Their perseverance and love for their homeland command respect and make you reflect on the value of simple things.
El Orcajo is more than just a dot on the map—it’s a symbol of resilience and devotion to tradition. Nestled in the heart of the Sierra Cebollera, where harsh winters give way to brief summers, every house keeps memories of generations past. Ancient customs still endure here, local legends are passed down, and you can sense the spirit of authentic Spain. For those seeking solitude and harmony with nature, El Orcajo is a true discovery.
