There are corners on the map of Spain that seem untouched by the passage of time. Lost settlements, almost invisible to the world, where the spirit of true rural life has been preserved in its original form. One such place, where elections are held in half a minute and the official population can be counted on the fingers of one hand, is Villarroya. Despite its tiny size, this settlement in the autonomous community of La Rioja hides remarkable historical and cultural treasures.
Its well-kept streets sharply contrast with the ruins of old houses—silent witnesses to the mass exodus that took place decades ago. A turning point that kept this place from vanishing completely was the discovery of a water source in the 1970s. Since then, those who remained have clung to their homeland with incredible determination. Villarroya’s history dates back to the late Middle Ages, when shepherds from nearby Arnedo built the first dwellings here. For centuries, the village thrived thanks to mining and agriculture. But the closure of the mines and a lack of prospects triggered an exodus that nearly wiped it from the map.
A walk through Villarroya today is a journey into the past. Some buildings have been restored and are kept in perfect condition, while others stand as monuments to a bygone era when life bustled here and dozens of families called it home. The few remaining residents proudly keep the flame alive in this unique place.
A turning point came in 1985 with the creation of the “Association of Friends of Villarroya.” This organization, which counts over three hundred members—mainly descendants of former residents now scattered across the country—became a true lifeline for the village. They organize maintenance work, host cultural gatherings, and uphold local traditions. Thanks to their efforts, the streets remain spotless, and historic buildings are kept in excellent condition. Even during general elections, the village draws media attention: the polling station closes in less than a minute, as soon as all registered voters have cast their ballots. This amusing fact perfectly captures the unique character of Villarroya.
Despite its small size, the village can surprise visitors with several historical sites. The main attraction is the church of San Pedro, a 15th-century Romanesque structure that has become the village’s symbol. Its simple stone masonry reflects the austerity and authenticity of the Riojan style. Other points of interest include the old communal oven—once used to bake bread for everyone—and the laundry house, a reminder of the village’s collective past. Abandoned mines bear witness to its industrial history, while traditional ice houses and grape presses speak to the importance of winemaking in the region.
Just six kilometers away lies the abandoned village of Turruncún, yet another somber testament to the demographic challenges of ‘Empty Spain’. Nature lovers can enjoy a walk through the oak grove of Carrascal de Villarroya, home to centuries-old oaks and traditional livestock pens that demonstrate the enduring bond between people and their environment. For the curious traveler, this is an essential stop on the journey to discover the undiscovered Rioja. In just a few narrow streets, a heritage worthy of preservation is concentrated. And although only a handful of people live here permanently, the heart of an entire people still beats strongly in Villarroya, refusing to disappear.
