Far from the usual tourist routes, in the very heart of “green” Iberia, there remain places where nature still sets the rules. The province of Lugo is one such bastion of untouched beauty, offering adventurers not just a walk, but a true immersion into a world unspoiled by civilization. Here, among misty valleys and ancient groves, lies one of the most impressive hiking trails in the entire northwest of the peninsula. Officially recognized by the Galician Mountaineering Federation as PR-G 145, it awaits those in search of genuine experiences.
This circular route spans about 21 kilometers and takes six to seven hours of steady walking to complete at a relaxed pace. The journey runs through the lands of the municipality of Baleira, crossing three historic parishes: A Braña, Martín, and Cubilleido. It is designed for those ready for moderate physical exertion and eager to gain something more than just beautiful photos in return—a genuine connection with the surrounding world and a true escape from the bustle.
A treasure trove of ancient woodland
A key highlight along this route is Fraga da Marronda, one of the best-preserved native forests in this part of Europe. This is a true beech kingdom, where towering canopies form a dense green roof, letting only occasional rays of sunlight slip through and paint intricate patterns of light and shadow on the forest floor. The air here is thick, cool, and filled with the scent of damp earth, moss, and decaying leaves. Silence feels almost tangible, broken only by birdsong, the drumming of a woodpecker, and the rustling of wind in the high branches. This unique biotope is protected by the European Natura 2000 network and is part of the biosphere reserve encompassing the Eo River, Oscos, and Terras de Burón, highlighting its exceptional ecological value and fragility.
From mountain peaks to murmuring waterfalls
The landscape along the trail is constantly changing, ensuring travelers never get bored. The path alternately climbs towards rocky peaks like Peña da Raña, then descends into shady hollows filled with dusk. One of the highest points is the O Ferreiro viewpoint, which offers a breathtaking panorama of the entire Eo River valley, the river winding below like a silver ribbon. Water plays a particularly important role here. Not far away is the source of the Eo itself, and its crystal-clear tributaries accompany hikers along much of the route, filling the air with their freshness. Picturesque waterfalls can be found along the way, such as Fervenza da Acea de Serra and Pozo da Ferreira, where visitors can take a break to enjoy the coolness and the meditative sound of falling water.
A journey through time across ancient settlements
This path is not only an encounter with nature, but also with history. It winds through tiny rural villages like Mendreiras and Cabreira, where it seems time has stood still for centuries. Stone houses with slate roofs, narrow lanes, and the near absence of people create a unique atmosphere of authenticity. The trail’s infrastructure is seamlessly integrated into the landscape: travelers will find old stone bridges crossing streams and sturdy wooden walkways for traversing the marshy stretches along the area’s main waterway. All this allows one to feel the harmony between people and the surrounding world that has developed here over centuries, and to glimpse a way of life that has hardly changed at all.
What you need to know before you go
The trail is of medium-high difficulty and best suited for experienced hikers rather than beginners. Sturdy hiking shoes, plenty of water, and a light snack are essential. Thanks to double-sided trail markers, you can start your hike from either the village of San Payo or the A-Cortevella recreation area. The latter, by the way, is a great spot for a picnic before tackling the most challenging section of the route. While the trail is beautiful year-round, it becomes especially magical in autumn, when the beech groves turn every shade of gold and crimson, creating truly fantastic, almost fairytale-like scenery. It’s an experience that reveals a different Iberia—wild, mysterious, incredibly beautiful—and will stay with you for a long time.
