In the heart of Spain, there are regions seemingly made to slow down the passage of time, let you take a deep breath, and remind you that life can move at a gentler pace. La Rioja is home to such places, and one of them is Briones. This tiny municipality, spread along the banks of the Ebro River, reveals its full splendor in autumn, when the vineyards turn shades of crimson and ochre. Its cobblestone streets and atmosphere of complete tranquility captivate everyone who sets foot on its ancient stones.
A Timeless Atmosphere
Briones looks like a perfect, yet utterly real, set for a historical film. Sandstone houses, family crests on facades, and architectural details from the 17th and 18th centuries blend harmoniously with the town’s unhurried pace of life. As you stroll through the town, you might come across neighbors chatting by an old doorway or dogs lazily basking in the sun. If you’re lucky, you may spot a bag of freshly baked bread hanging from a door knocker on one of the houses. All of this unfolds without fuss or noise, wrapped in that genuine charm that is so hard to find in other tourist destinations.
The very location of Briones makes it worth the trip. The Ebro river curves around the town, creating a perfect bend that can be admired from any impromptu viewpoint. Both banks are covered with a carpet of vineyards, changing hues every autumn day and offering some of the most photogenic landscapes in the Rioja Alta subregion. Not far from the center is a local landmark — the Millennium Bridge, which, despite its name, administratively belongs to the neighboring town of Haro. Nevertheless, it has become an integral part of the collective memory of everyone who visits this area, especially at sunset when the sun paints the Ebro in golden tones. Be sure to visit the Church of the Assumption, towering above the town, and the touching Humilladero — a small architectural gem that preserves the spirit of this place.
Gastronomy and wine
For those seeking a romantic, culinary, or simply peaceful getaway, Briones is the perfect choice. Here you’ll find Palacio Tondón — a unique hotel blending architectural elements from the 16th, 17th, and 21st centuries. The hotel seems made for travelers who dream of opening their windows and hearing the gentle whisper of the Ebro. Inside, among stone walls, wood, and soft lighting, lies a special surprise — an underground “calado” wine cellar. In these traditional caves, wine was once stored at a constant temperature. Today, tastings and intimate gatherings are held here, where a glass of wine is always part of the conversation.
Breakfast at the hotel has its own charm: artisanal products, homemade jams, smoked trout, and a flexible schedule that lets you forget about the time. It’s a true ode to serenity. But Briones is not only the land of wine—it’s a destination for haute cuisine. The Gran Reserva restaurant, led by chef Jesús Terradillos, has become one of the region’s top gastronomic highlights. Its autumn-winter menu blends tradition with creativity: here you can try caparrones beans cooked at low temperature, croquettes with marinated ribs, or artichoke with langoustine—a must-try according to many guests. The experience is rounded off with a wine list featuring over 150 Rioja wines, expertly presented by professionals who share stories about old vines and the nuances of local winemaking methods.
What to do in the surrounding area
Autumn in Briones is perfect for leisurely walks, but it also invites you to discover the region in new ways. Electric bike routes make it easy to explore trails winding through the vineyards. For wine tourism enthusiasts, a visit to the Station Quarter in Haro is almost a must—it boasts the world’s largest concentration of century-old wineries. It’s a unique opportunity to dive into the history of winemaking.
Another option is to take a walk along the river, watching as the mist settles over the water, or, if the season is right, plan a kayaking route. Each of these activities brings that rare sense of escape from everyday hustle and bustle—a feeling that seems to exist only in small towns that have managed to preserve their original character.
Incidentally, La Rioja is not only one of Spain’s most renowned and prestigious wine regions, but also one of the most celebrated worldwide. It was the first Spanish region to receive the highest quality status, Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), in 1991. The region is famous for its red wines, predominantly made from the Tempranillo grape. Winemaking here is more than just an industry—it’s a vital part of the culture and history, attracting thousands of tourists each year for winery (bodega) tours, tastings, and to enjoy the region’s unique landscapes.
