Autumn in Asturias is a canvas where ochre and crimson mountain slopes merge with the rugged greys of the Cantabrian Sea. In this picturesque corner of northern Spain, far from bustling tourist routes, lies a settlement that seems frozen in time. Located in the eastern part of the region, within the municipality of Llanes, this place offers travelers more than just beautiful landscapes. It is an immersion into an authentic atmosphere, where every cobblestone has its own story, and the air is filled with tranquility and peace. Just 18 kilometers from the comarca capital, nestled between the sea and the Sierra del Cuera mountain range, this oasis of serenity is attracting more and more seekers of quiet retreats.
Strolling through its streets is a journey through the ages. The town’s architectural appearance is a remarkable blend of different eras and styles. Here, you can see the medieval San Jorge Tower from the 11th century, seamlessly integrated into the later palace of the Counts of Vega del Sella. Nearby stands an old pilgrims’ hospital with a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary Blanca. It is no surprise that back in 1953, this place was officially recognized as the most beautiful village in Asturias. Adding to its distinct character are the so-called “casas de indianos”—opulent villas built at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries by emigrants returning wealthy from the Americas. Their eclectic architecture, which fuses colonial motifs with European Art Nouveau, stands in stark contrast to traditional Baroque mansions and modest chapels, creating a unique cultural landscape best explored at a leisurely pace, attentive to every detail.
The natural surroundings here are just as captivating as the region’s man-made wonders. Just a few minutes away lies the famous Cuevas del Mar beach—whose name, “Caves by the Sea,” speaks for itself. Over thousands of years, water and wind have shaped this site into unusual karst arches and grottoes, which, at high tide, transform the coastline into a surreal landscape. For those seeking solitude, the quieter beaches of San Antonio and Toranda are ideal choices. Another geological marvel, especially striking in autumn and winter, is Bufones de Pría. During storms, seawater bursts through the cracks in the cliffs under high pressure, erupting into spectacular geysers of spray. Over all this beauty rises the Sierra del Cuera range, a protected natural area. Its oak and beech forests, painted in tones of gold and copper, offer numerous hiking trails for complete immersion in the Asturian wilderness, where you might encounter foxes, wild boar, and birds of prey.
Life here flows in harmony with centuries-old traditions. In September, the streets come alive with music and festivities during the Santo Cristo del Amparo celebration, an event recognized as being of tourist interest throughout the principality. An autumn trip would not be complete without sampling the local cuisine. This is the season for hearty, warming dishes such as pote asturiano—a thick bean and sausage stew. It’s also the perfect time to try freshly pressed sweet cider and join in the amagüestu, a traditional harvest festival where roasted chestnuts take center stage. Reaching this hidden corner is easy. From Oviedo or Gijón, take the A-8 highway towards Llanes, then follow the signs to Nueva. There is also ALSA bus service between Oviedo and Llanes, from where a local bus will bring you to your destination in just half an hour—an ideal route for those seeking a blend of history and nature.
