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When the Outskirts of Madrid Smelled of Gunpowder and the Glory of the Wild West

Spanish Hollywood: How the Capital Region Became a Mecca for Westerns

The Spanish capital holds remarkable secrets. Its outskirts were once the Wild West, serving as a backdrop for iconic European Westerns. Discover this forgotten chapter of cinematic history.

There was an era when the air on Spain’s central plateau was thick with the scent of pyrotechnics, and the landscapes resembled the American prairies. It was a time of legendary duels under the blazing sun, dusty stagecoaches, and saloons with swinging doors, where the echo of revolver shots became law amid the deserted plains. Cinema worked its magic, transforming rocky badlands and the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama into perfect backdrops for dozens of films about the conquest of the frontier.

For decades, more than thirty municipalities in the autonomous community hosted film crews for iconic productions of this genre. Among them are ‘Return of the Seven’ by Burt Kennedy and, of course, the ‘Dollars Trilogy,’ which made Clint Eastwood a global star. The 1960s and 1970s became the golden age of the so-called spaghetti westerns. They sparked a true revolution in the classic American genre, offering a harsher, stylized, and more symbolic European perspective on stories of cowboys and outlaws.

One of the most striking films of its time is the 1971 movie “Les Pétroleuses,” starring the recently departed Claudia Cardinale and Brigitte Bardot. This film, a joint production between Italy, France, Spain, and the United Kingdom, was shot both in the province of Burgos and in the area surrounding Spain’s capital. Some of the locations featured in director Christian-Jaque’s film include the old Santander-Mediterranean railway line and the Salas de los Infantes station in the Castilian city.

While working on the film in central Spain, the crew moved between several locations. In Dehesa de Navalvillar, in Colmenar Viejo, a ranch was built from scratch, complete with every detail. Existing sets in Daganzo were also used. The surrounding canyons and rocky areas near the headwaters of the Manzanares River provided a natural backdrop for countless scenes of clashes, shootouts, and ambushes.

Today, Colmenar Viejo carefully preserves its rich historical and artistic heritage. Its symbol is the imposing Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady, complemented by ancient chapels and traditional manor houses that recall its pastoral past. Added to this are venues such as the Casa de la Villa Museum, introducing visitors to traditional mountain life, and the Museum of Sacred Art, featuring liturgical items of significant historical interest.

Archaeological sites near the town, such as Navalmilliar and Navalahija, as well as the Visigothic necropolis of Remedios, open to visitors, bear witness to the historical significance of this municipality in past eras. Its patron festivities in honor of the Virgin Mary de los Remedios, celebrated in August, fill the area with music, bull runs, and pilgrimages.

Its cuisine, inherited from the traditions of nomadic stockbreeders, is renowned for roasted lamb and kid goat, served with migas and hearty mountain stews. The surrounding nature invites visitors to explore hiking trails, such as Cañada de la Retuerta and Dehesa de Navalmilliar, or routes leading to the Sierra de Guadarrama. All of this makes the municipality a place where culture, festivities, and nature go hand in hand, preserving the memory of its remarkable cinematic past.

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