Halfway between the bustling coasts of Valencia, Alicante, and Murcia, in the heart of the La Mancha plateau, lies a town whose name is rarely found in glossy travel guides. Almansa. Towering above its tiled rooftops like an eternal sentinel is the rocky Cerro del Águila, crowned with one of Spain’s most impressive castles. This is a place where time seems to slow down, preserving the atmosphere of bygone eras and the memory of events that shaped the nation’s future for centuries to come. Just an hour’s drive from the Mediterranean bustle, and you find yourself in a completely different world, steeped in history and monumental tranquility.
It was here, on these fields, in 1707, that a battle echoed, marking a turning point in the War of the Spanish Succession. The Battle of Almansa tipped the scales in favor of the Bourbon dynasty, forever altering the political landscape of the Iberian Peninsula. To fully appreciate the scale of this event, make sure to visit the local Interpretation Center, located next to the tourist office. Within its halls, the battles come to life: detailed models, authentic uniforms, and old documents immerse visitors in the drama of that decisive day. For the most curious, special guided tours of the battle sites are held on the first Sunday of each month and require prior reservation.
The heart of the city beats on Plaza de Santa María, where the main architectural treasures are concentrated. Here stands the Palace of the Counts of Sirat, also known as the “Big House,” which today houses the city hall. Its austere Mannerist façade conceals an elegant inner courtyard with arcades. Next to it is the Parish Church of the Assumption of the Virgin, an impressive blend of styles where a Renaissance portal stands beside a Baroque bell tower. Walking along the old streets, such as San Agustín, you can see stately mansions of noble families, like Casa Enríquez de Navarra, the site where the capitulation after the famous battle was signed, or the Palace of the Marquises of Montortal. Nearby is the Augustinian convent, whose entrance is adorned with twisted Solomon columns.
But the main attraction for any traveler is, undoubtedly, the castle. Built in the 14th century, it is a prime example of Gothic military architecture. Its main tower, Torre del Homenaje, preserves beneath its arches a unique ribbed cross vault of stone and brick, adorned with the coat of arms of Juan Pacheco, Marqués de Villena. Climbing its walls, you can not only enjoy panoramic views of the city and surrounding area, but also feel the presence of centuries past. At the foot of the fortress lies the historic center, with a labyrinth of narrow alleyways that have retained their medieval character and the pulse of bygone days. The fortress is open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday; the general admission ticket costs 5 euros, and the reduced ticket is 3 euros. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.; entry is 1.5 euros, but with a castle ticket, the price is reduced to one euro.
The gastronomic side of the trip will not disappoint either. The city offers venues for every taste: from the traditional Mesón de Pincelín to the refined Maralba, which boasts Michelin stars. And for those willing to venture beyond the city, the neighboring municipality of Alpera is home to the Cueva de la Vieja. Its cave paintings, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, provide a stunning finale to your exploration of this remarkable and discovery-rich region.
