In the very heart of Cantabria, far from the bustle of big cities, lies a settlement where history takes precedence over modernity. There are no car engines roaring here; the air is filled with the scent of hydrangeas and river-damp earth. Visitors are greeted by cobbled streets, centuries-old stone mansions, and a peaceful silence broken only by the murmur of the Pulero stream. In this place, every step feels like a meditation, every turn reveals a scene worthy of a painter’s brush. It’s no wonder this corner has earned the unofficial titles of ‘the city of letters’ and ‘the city of flowers,’ as it has inspired many creative souls.
Once, this area was known as Malacoria. In the early Middle Ages, the foromontanos would set out from here to repopulate the lands of Castile. But it was the writer Concha Espina who brought true fame to this place, immortalizing it in her novel ‘La niña de Luzmela.’ She didn’t just live here—she turned the entire village into the setting for her work, and since then, her literary spirit can be felt everywhere. Walking these streets, it’s easy to imagine how the lines of her novels came to life.
Literary heritage and aristocratic architecture
The architectural appearance of the village is a frozen-in-time elegy to a noble past. At the top rises the 17th-century Church of San Martín, adorned with a fresco by the artist María Masarrasa. Nearby stands the Gutiérrez de Mier Palace-House, a magnificent example of 18th-century Baroque, founded by an arms-bearer of Emperor Carlos V. Family crests on the facades, massive stone walls, and graceful wooden balconies called ‘solanas’ wrapped in flowers catch the eye. These details create a unique atmosphere of authenticity and coziness.
One of the main jewels is the Magnolia Palace. This 19th-century residence recalls visits by King Alfonso XII, Queen Isabel II, and many figures from the arts. Concha Espina herself lived here for some time with her son-in-law, the renowned guitarist Regino Sainz de la Maza. The palace gardens, designed with exotic plants, still preserve echoes of society gatherings and creative evenings that once took place beneath the ancient magnolias.
A floral symphony and gastronomic discoveries
This place truly lives up to its nickname as the “city of flowers.” Thanks to its centuries-old nurseries that are still hard at work, the streets and squares burst with vibrant colors all year round. In the main square stands a sculpture honoring the female form—a tribute to local identity. For anyone seeking a closer connection to nature, the “El Bosque” park stretches along the outskirts. A walk by the Saja River, surrounded by alder, sedge, and ferns, transports you to the romantic landscapes of the 19th century.
Along with visual and cultural delights, this destination also offers a feast for food lovers. Local restaurants take pride in their traditional cuisine. Be sure to try the hearty cocido montañés, dishes featuring tender beef raised in the Saja Valley, and homemade desserts with local honey and walnuts. It’s the perfect way to end a leisurely autumn day that brings together history, nature, and excellent food.
How to reach this timeless hidden gem
Getting to this idyllic place is easy. It’s just a half-hour drive from Santander via the A-67, an hour and a half from Bilbao, and about four hours from Madrid on the A-1 highway. The road itself, winding through green hills, meadows, and rivers, is already part of an unforgettable adventure. Once you arrive, all that’s left is to surrender to its unhurried rhythm and allow yourself to get lost among the stone walls and floral arches, discovering the very soul of Cantabria that Concha Espina immortalized in her books more than a century ago. As Josefina Aldecoa wrote in her memoirs, this is a place where the river lies at your feet, the mountains rise behind your back, a realm of peace and serenity where time seems to have stopped forever.
