Every year at the end of summer, Ochagavía, a small town in the Salazar valley, hosts a unique festival. Locals and visitors alike immerse themselves for several days in the atmosphere of the early 20th century. Modern elements of the urban environment are covered with heavy fabrics so that nothing reminds anyone of the present time. The only exceptions are bank terminals and mobile phones, used by both participants and the many tourists.
The festival Orhipean, which means “under Orhi” in Basque (Orhi being the mountain that rises above the town), is dedicated to reviving forgotten crafts and traditions. Almost all the residents of Ochagavía take part in the event, as well as those who once left but return specifically for the occasion. People dress in costumes typical of the early 1900s and take on the roles of their ancestors: laundresses, weavers, bakers, and even a barber whose duties also include dental care. Just as a century ago, you can pay for services not only with coins but also with food. Tooth extraction with anesthesia costs one peseta, but if you’re brave, the procedure is free.
The idea for the festival arose more than twenty years ago, when organizers decided to change the format of traditional celebrations. Previously, they held concerts, but these proved too expensive. The older generation supported the new concept and eagerly became involved, passing on skills and knowledge to young people. Now, the younger residents continue family traditions by taking part in various workshops and craft demonstrations.
The unique feature of Orhipean is the involvement of all ages. Even if someone doesn’t go out in costume, they might offer their home or belongings to help decorate the locations. For example, the doctor’s office is set up in the foyer of a private house, while the cobbler displays footwear worn on Ochagavía’s stone streets decades ago. Old barns, once used for keeping livestock in the summer, are also recreated for the celebration, and many homes open their doors to guests to showcase traditional entryway designs.
In the city center, Casa Koleto, formerly known as Casa Mancho, is open to visitors. This is a typical Pyrenean house, rebuilt in the 18th century after a fire set by the French during the war. In 2021, the building was acquired by the municipality, and its interior has remained almost unchanged. Unique wooden cribs have been preserved here, and in 1957 the apostolic nuncio Ildebrando Antoniutti stayed in the house.
One of the rooms is set up as an old school, with separate classes for boys and girls. A notice on the door advertises for a female teacher, listing unusual requirements: she must not marry, must not go out with men, must not dye her hair, and must wear at least two skirts. The focus is on the details: costumes and decorations are carefully selected, but above all, participants strive for natural behavior.
Washerwomen do laundry on the riverbank, the village guard announces the news, and weavers, mostly elderly women, continue working as they were taught by their parents. In the square, a shepherd shears a sheep by hand, without ropes, and the wool is collected for further processing. Real shepherds demonstrate their skills, while herds of donkeys, cows, and goats—fed and walked by farmers—move through the streets.
A special place is given to the ritual of pig slaughter—mata-txerri. In front of onlookers, the animal is butchered, the meat is chopped, and sausage and other dishes are prepared.
Not all participants are professionals. For example, the roles of barber and dentist are played by electrician José Luis, who has enthusiastically taken part since the very beginning of the festival. He notes that props are sourced from different households, and preparations require significant effort. At that moment, a priest approaches him, and it remains a mystery whether he is a real pastor or an actor, as both freely stroll the streets.
The festive atmosphere extends to the church as well. One of the residents prays in a traditional mantilla, and before her are old candles once brought to services by the families of the deceased. People recall a vanished custom: in May, girls preparing for their first communion would bring flowers to the Virgin Mary, both in Ochagavía and in the chapel of Muskilda.
