In the autonomous community of Galicia, on the Atlantic coast, lies one of Spain’s most mysterious and revered pilgrimage sites — the sanctuary of San Andrés de Teixido (San Andrés de Teixido). In terms of significance, it is second only to the world-famous cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. This site, steeped in centuries-old traditions and mystical legends, attracts thousands of pilgrims and tourists eager to connect with its unique history.
At the heart of local culture is a belief expressed in a Galician proverb: «Vai de morto quen non foi de vivo», meaning “He who does not go there alive will go there dead.” According to legend, the Apostle Andrew came to this land, but his church remained empty, while the remains of the Apostle James in Compostela drew crowds. Saddened, the saint received a promise from God: no soul will enter heaven without first visiting his sanctuary. Another version of the legend says that those who ignore this place in life will be forced to make a pilgrimage after death, reincarnated three times as an animal.
Pilgrimage to San Andrés de Teixido is marked by numerous rituals. One of the main traditions is visiting the ‘Fonte do Santo’ (the Holy Spring) with its three spouts. Pilgrims drink the water while making a wish, as it is believed to have healing properties. Pilgrims also leave stones on special mounds called ‘milladoiros’ as a sign of their visit. These stone piles, scattered along the path to the sanctuary, symbolize the burdens of sin left behind.
In the local streets, visitors can purchase unique souvenirs. Among them are ‘sanandresiños,’ small bread-crumb amulets believed to bring luck and protect against evil. Another popular item is the ‘herba de namorar’—the herb of love—which, according to tradition, should be secretly slipped into the pocket of a chosen person to awaken mutual feelings. No visit is complete without tasting the local ‘rosquillas’ doughnuts.
The sanctuary itself, built in the 16th–17th centuries in maritime Gothic style, is set in the picturesque Serra da Capelada, in the municipality of Cedeira (province of A Coruña). The church is surrounded by some of the highest coastal cliffs in continental Europe, known as the Vixía Herbeira. Inside, the church holds numerous votive offerings from sailors and pilgrims, reflecting deep faith and gratitude to the patron saint.
The sanctuary can be reached via the ancient pilgrimage route “Camiño Vello,” which stretches for about 40 kilometers. The trail passes through picturesque landscapes, ancient castro settlements, and old mills. The pilgrimage culminates on September 8th, the Day of Saint Andrew, when crowds gather in this remote corner of Galicia to honor the saint and take part in festivities where Christian faith is deeply intertwined with ancient myths and local traditions.
