At the summit of the Verdera mountain ridge, in the very heart of Cap de Creus Natural Park, stands a majestic structure that has become a symbol of Catalan Romanesque architecture. This Benedictine complex, perched more than 500 meters above sea level, offers visitors breathtaking panoramic views of the Port de la Selva bay and the endless expanse of the Mediterranean. Its austere silhouette, greeting travelers along the winding GIP-6041 mountain road, signals an encounter with one of the most important religious and cultural centers of medieval Catalonia—officially designated as a site of national cultural heritage.
Although the first written records of this monastery date back to 878, archaeological findings indicate an even older origin, revealing remains of structures from the 6th century. The turning point in its history came in 944, when it gained independence, marking the beginning of its “golden age.” This flourishing would not have been possible without the patronage of local noble Tasi and his son Hildesind, who became the first abbot. It was in the 10th and 11th centuries that the main church was built, consecrated in 1022 and becoming the centerpiece of the entire architectural ensemble.
The church is a striking example of mature Romanesque style. Its floor plan is shaped like a Latin cross with three naves, separated by double columns topped with intricately decorated capitals. The architecture displays a unique blend of influences: from Carolingian and pre-Romanesque traditions to elements borrowed from late Roman architecture. This synthesis of styles reflects the abbey’s strategic role as a prominent spiritual center at the crossroads of cultures. The imposing bell tower and defensive tower add to the complex’s grandeur, serving as a reminder that in troubled times, the abbey was not only a place of prayer but also a fortress.
The period of prosperity lasted until the 14th century, after which a slow but steady decline began. The Black Death dealt a devastating blow to the region. The following centuries brought war and the constant threat of pirate attacks. One of the most tragic episodes occurred in 1693, when French troops under the Duke of Noailles looted the complex, stealing its most prized possession – the famous Rhodes Bible. The final abandonment came after the church confiscations in 1853, when the last monks left these ancient buildings.
For many decades, the site was forgotten until it was declared a National Historic and Artistic Monument in 1930. This decision marked the beginning of extensive restoration efforts, which brought back some of its former splendor. Today, visitors are free to explore the grounds, stroll through the church, visit the restored cloister, and see the towers and the former abbot’s palace. The latter now houses an information center dedicated to the unique nature of the Cap de Creus Park.
You can reach this iconic place from the town of El Port de la Selva, located just a few kilometers away. The journey from Figueres is about 26 km, and from Cadaqués – 17 km. The most convenient route from Girona runs along the AP-7 highway to the 4th exit, then continues via the N-II, N-260, and finally the scenic mountain road GI-6041. There is also a bus service from Port de la Selva. A standard entrance ticket costs 6 euros, with discounts available for certain categories of visitors. The complex is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday; in summer until 19:00, and during the rest of the year until 17:30. Guided tours are also offered for a more in-depth experience and insight.
