In the very heart of Asturias, nestled among rolling hills and dense forests, lies the small village of Bermiego (Bermiego), which transforms beyond recognition in autumn. A winding road leads here, twisting along the slopes of Quirós, turning the journey itself into the start of an adventure. As you climb, breathtaking views of the valley open up, and ahead appears a tiny settlement where it feels as if time stopped centuries ago.
Bermiego is more than just a village — it’s a true living open-air museum. Dozens of traditional stilted granaries — hórreos and paneras, adorned with carvings and geometric patterns — have been preserved here. These buildings, characteristic of the region, stand alongside stone and wooden houses, creating an atmosphere of medieval Asturias. Strolling through the narrow streets, it’s easy to imagine generations of locals living here, preserving their customs and crafts.
The yew that has outlasted centuries
The main pride of Bermiego is the ancient yew tree (Taxus baccata), known to locals as Teixu l’iglesia. This tree, recognized as a natural monument, is considered one of the oldest in Europe. Its massive trunk and spreading crown rise beside the church of Santa María (Santa María), built in the 15th century. Legend has it that this was where the dead were once buried, so their souls could remain close to the sacred tree. The yew has become a symbol of resilience and eternity for the villagers, and its green branches still shelter the small cemetery by the church.
In autumn, Bermiego is especially picturesque: golden and crimson shades of chestnut and beech trees light up the village, while the yew remains ever green. This blend of colors turns the surroundings into a living painting you want to admire again and again.
Gateway to a world of nature and tradition
Bermiego is a great starting point for lovers of hiking and the outdoors. From here, it’s easy to reach the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Natural Park, with its trekking routes and opportunities to observe local wildlife. Just a few kilometers away is the Las Xanas Gorge, famous for its sheer cliffs and a scenic trail that runs right along the edge.
In the village, you can still see ancient water mills that once played a vital role in local life. Here, a special wheat variety called escanda is grown, well suited to the cold and used to bake traditional bread. Food lovers will also appreciate the local cheese, still made from old recipes and aged in special leather pouches.
Bermiego: Where Past Meets Present
Although just over fifty people live in the village today, it retains its unique character. Traditions are honored here, festivals are held, and local crafts are kept alive and passed down to new generations. In autumn, Bermiego becomes especially appealing to those seeking solitude, natural beauty, and the authentic atmosphere of old Asturias. It’s a place where you can feel history come alive and draw energy from ancient trees.
