As night falls over the Sierra de la Demanda mountains, the first festive lights illuminate Ezcaray. This town in La Rioja comes alive, transforming into a true winter wonderland. Narrow streets glow with light, the air fills with the scent of fresh pastries and spices. Every corner is lovingly decorated, as residents prepare for the most anticipated days of the year.
At the heart of it all is Plaza de la Verdura. Here, the Christmas market unfolds, offering handmade crafts, artisanal decorations, and traditional treats from local vendors. The atmosphere is so warm that even the coldest evenings feel cozy. Visitors stroll between stalls, sampling sausages and wine, listening to Christmas carols, and getting lost in the maze of cobbled streets.
Historic charm
Ezcaray is a town with history and character. Its population barely exceeds two thousand, yet it preserves old manor houses and palaces. Among them stand out Casa de los Condes de Torremúzquiz and Palacio del Arzobispo. These buildings neighbor ancient arched streets where time seems to stand still. The town’s main church, Santa María la Mayor, impresses with a blend of architectural styles—Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance.
In December, life here is especially vibrant. One of the most anticipated events is the children’s live nativity scene held right in the square on December 24. Before that, children parade through the streets singing, filling the town with joy and laughter. The parade of the Magi and the San Silvestre run are also very popular, when locals and visitors don costumes and race along snow-covered roads to bid farewell to the old year.
Winter scenery
Nature lovers find Ezcaray an ideal winter retreat. The Oja river flows through the town, with walking paths tracing its banks. One of the most picturesque trails leads to the barranco del Ortigal, where the winter forests turn into a postcard landscape. Just a few kilometers away is the Valdezcaray ski resort, a favorite among residents of Burgos, Logroño, and Bilbao. With 26 runs surrounded by the slopes of San Lorenzo mountain, snow and speed enthusiasts return here every season.
Gastronomy and traditions
Ezcaray’s festive spirit is inseparably tied to its cuisine. Local restaurants and bars are renowned for dishes prepared from old family recipes. Standing out is the Echaurren restaurant, famous far beyond the region. Here, you can sample both traditional snacks and gourmet cuisine. In the evening, as snow falls outside, it’s especially pleasant to sip a hot drink beneath the arches of old houses and feel part of this winter fairy tale.
Ezcaray in December is not just about lights and decorations, but also about the atmosphere created by its residents. Their hospitality, love for tradition, and ability to enjoy simple things make this town a special place to celebrate Christmas.
