On the coast of the Bay of Biscay, where the Cantabrian Sea calls the shots, there is a place that seems straight out of an adventure novel. Between Bilbao and San Sebastián, across from the charming town of Lekeitio, the island of Garraitz rises from the water. This isn’t just a patch of land, but a true chameleon world—accessible only for a few hours each day when the mighty ocean recedes.
Travelers, captivated by its elongated shape and seclusion, have dubbed it the ‘Basque Ko Tao,’ drawing a parallel with the famous Thai island. And indeed, they share a similar natural magnetism that captures you at first sight. But unlike that tropical paradise, the route to Garraitz is shaped not by boats, but by nature itself. As the tide ebbs, the sea reveals a narrow, moss-covered stone causeway from Isuntza beach or a sandy path from the Carraspio side.
This short crossing turns an ordinary walk into a mini-adventure. The main rule here: watch the tide schedule carefully. The sea doesn’t forgive mistakes, and those who hesitate risk swimming back. This dependence on the elements makes visiting the island a ritual: first, you check the timetable, then comes the thrilling crossing—and finally, the well-deserved reward of breathtaking views from its summit.
Despite its wild and tranquil appearance today, the island—also known as San Nicolás—has a rich history. For centuries, its 6.5 hectares have served various purposes. In the 16th century, during a plague outbreak, it became a quarantine zone, isolating the sick from the rest of the world. Later, it hosted a chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas, a Franciscan monastery, and even defensive structures from the War of Independence.
Archaeological finds scattered across the island bear witness to its vibrant past. In 2019, after the discovery of medieval coins, remnants of fortifications, and even human remains, the Basque Country government granted the island archaeological park status. Climbing to its viewpoint not only offers stunning coastal panoramas but also feels like stepping back in time.
The island itself is small: just 250 meters long and reaching a maximum height of 48 meters. There’s a short walking trail, secluded beaches that appear at high tide, and perfect picnic spots set among wind-blown pines and the cries of gulls. Here, time seems to slow down, broken only by the sounds of nature.
After exploring the island, a perfect way to end the day is with a visit to the port of Lekeitio. The local taverns entice with the aromas of freshly grilled fish, traditional cod pintxos, and other seafood delicacies. Garraitz is more than just a patch of land in the ocean—it’s a unique place where nature sets the rules and all you can do is surrender to its captivating rhythm.
By the way, Lekeitio is not just a picturesque backdrop for the island of Garraitz, but one of the most important fishing ports on the Bay of Biscay. Its history is closely tied to the sea and the whaling industry, which thrived here for centuries. Today, the town preserves its authentic maritime spirit. Strolling through its narrow streets, you can see traditional Basque houses with colorful balconies. The Basilica of the Assumption of Mary, with its impressive Gothic façade, dominates the harbor. Locals take pride in their history, which comes alive during numerous holidays and festivals.
