Right on the border where verdant Asturias meets mystical Galicia lies a small town that can capture your heart at first sight. This is Ribadeo, a place where the Cantabrian Sea whispers ancient legends and the stone streets hold stories of distant journeys and homecomings. Here, you’ll find none of the hustle and bustle of major tourist centers, but something far more valuable—a sense of authenticity you feel in your very skin as you breathe in the salty air mixed with the scent of blooming camellias.
A walk through Ribadeo is a journey through time. The heart of the town, Plaza de España, serves as the starting point. From here, alleys radiate outward, leading to the main treasures. Your gaze is inevitably drawn to the Torre de los Moreno, a whimsical modernist building that seems to have stepped out of a fairy tale. This architectural eccentricity, recognized as a cultural landmark, creates a striking contrast with the more austere Paseo de Ibáñez, but together they form a unique ensemble. Not far from here begins the San Roque district, where a different story unfolds. This is the quarter of the indianos—emigrants who grew wealthy in the Americas and, upon returning home, built themselves luxurious villas. Their houses, with elegant façades surrounded by gardens of palms and exotic plants, still recall an era of great hopes and fulfilled dreams.
But Ribadeo is more than just architecture. The town is deeply connected to the water—its life pulses with the tides of the estuary that bears its name. Be sure to follow the trail leading to the old loading dock, O-Cargadoiro. Once bustling with work and departing ships, today it serves as a spectacular viewpoint with remnants of the historic railway line, offering breathtaking views. Nearby, at the river’s mouth, stands the San-Damián fort, guarding the coast. This restored 17th-century fortress has witnessed many battles; now it awaits visitors with tranquil panoramas and the perfect opportunity for postcard-worthy photos. If you want to see both shores—Galician and Asturian—from the water, you can always take a short boat trip. In the evening, all roads lead to the old town or to the characterful fishing quarter of O-Rinlo, where local bars serve the freshest seafood.
And yet, the region’s main natural landmark is just a few minutes away. Praia das Catedrais, known by travelers as the Beach of Cathedrals. The name is no coincidence. When the tide retreats and exposes the sandy seabed, a true Gothic marvel crafted by nature appears before your eyes. Majestic rock arches and buttresses, sculpted by waves and wind, truly resemble the vaults of a giant cathedral. Wandering among these stone colossi, peering into mysterious grottos, and listening to the echo of the surf is an unforgettable experience. In autumn, as the summer crowds fade and the light grows softer, the place gains a special, almost sacred atmosphere. The main thing is to check the tide schedule, as with the arrival of high water the magic disappears, closing off access to the arches and leaving only the possibility to admire them from above, from the clifftop path.
If you have extra time, the surroundings of Ribadeo offer just as many discoveries. You can head inland to Lourenzá to try the local bean variety, ‘faba,’ and visit the ancient Monasterio de San Salvador. Or explore the ruins of Castillo de Tovar. Each of these destinations adds new layers to the portrait of this remarkable region, where history, nature, and gastronomy are woven into perfect harmony, creating an ideal setting for a relaxed and meaningful holiday.
